I think we’re all a bit surprised that December is already here. There are cards to address, gifts to be wrapped, and new traditions to be made. Even with all the chaos this time of year brings, it’s a great time to try new dishes at your dinner table.
If a recipe calls for butternut squash and sage, you don’t have to ask me twice. I was instantly sold on Bon Appetit’s “Festival of Latkes” feature in December’s issue, and this Jewish potato pancake made a surprise appearance the afternoon my husband and I decorated our Christmas tree. Cumin adds an unexpected warmth, and brown butter and toasted pine nuts….well, need I say more?
Butternut Squash Latkes with Sage and Pine Nut Yogurt Sauce
By Jayne Cohen, Bon Appetit
Makes 38 to 40
Ingredients
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
1 2-pound butternut squash, halved lengthwise, seeded
4 tablespoons olive oil (not extra-virgin), divided, plus additional for frying
8 large fresh sage leaves
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 cup chopped shallots (about 6)
3/4 cup fine dry unseasoned breadcrumbs
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 large eggs, beaten to blend
Sage and Pine Nut Yogurt Sauce (recipe follows)
Preparation
Preheat oven to 425°F. Line large rimmed baking sheet with foil. Spray foil with nonstick spray. Brush cut side of squash halves with 2 tablespoons oil. Place 2 sage leaves on cut side of each half. Place garlic clove in each cavity. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Turn squash, cut side down, on prepared sheet. Roast until tender and brown in spots, about 1 hour. Cool on sheet.
Discard sage leaves; reserve garlic. Spoon enough roasted squash into large measuring cup to measure 4 cups packed (reserve any remaining squash for another use); add garlic. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Scrape shallot mixture into processor; add 4 cups squash with garlic, breadcrumbs, cumin, baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Blend until just smooth, occasionally scraping down sides of bowl. Transfer squash mixture to large bowl; mix in eggs.
Add enough oil to heavy large skillet to coat bottom generously; heat over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 7 or 8 and adding more oil as needed, drop 1 heaping tablespoonful batter for each latke into skillet. Dip back of fork into oil in skillet and flatten batter to 2 1/2-inch rounds. Fry latkes until brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer latkes to rimmed baking sheets. DO AHEAD Can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature. Rewarm uncovered in 350°F oven 15 minutes.
Serve latkes with yogurt sauce.
Herb-Roasted Turkey Breast
Every Thanksgiving, I’m reminded of my love for turkey. But turkey can be overwhelming, especially if you roast a large bird for several hours. Then come the negotiations between you and your chef’s knife, cutting it this way and that, hoping you don’t mangle the meat too much. Well, this year I had no reason to cook a twenty-pound turkey, but turkey breast – that I could handle.
Turkey breast is perfect for two or small dinner parties. Plus it’s easier to make, takes significantly less cooking time, and is the perfect way to enjoy fall flavors year round. Making turkey is a great opportunity to test side dishes, cooking methods, and try new flavors for old favorites. By the time I do host Thanksgiving, my menu should be perfect.
I love the herb variety in this recipe. The addition of tart mustard (I used fresh instead of dried), and a slight hint of lemon is a lovely combination. Served alongside roasted acorn squash or mashed potatoes and it will feel like Thanksgiving all over again.
Herb-Roasted Turkey Breast
Recipe courtesy Ina Garten
1 whole bone-in turkey breast, 6 1/2 to 7 pounds
1 tablespoon minced garlic (3 cloves)
2 teaspoons dry mustard
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons good olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup dry white wine
Directions
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Place the turkey breast, skin side up, on a rack in a roasting pan.
In a small bowl, combine the garlic, mustard, herbs, salt, pepper, olive oil, and lemon juice to make a paste. Loosen the skin from the meat gently with your fingers and smear half of the paste directly on the meat. Spread the remaining paste evenly on the skin. Pour the wine into the bottom of the roasting pan.
Roast the turkey for 1 3/4 to 2 hours, until the skin is golden brown and an instant-read thermometer registers 165 degrees F when inserted into the thickest and meatiest areas of the breast. (I test in several places.) If the skin is over-browning, cover the breast loosely with aluminum foil. When the turkey is done, cover with foil and allow it to rest at room temperature for 15 minutes. Slice and serve with the pan juices spooned over the turkey.
Homemade Oreos
One word: Yum! I love classic Oreo cookies, but making them yourself, resulting in a slightly soft chocolate wafer with creamy filling, is even more spectacular. Plus it’s very impressive. We’ve all seen Oreo’s, but when you offer unsuspecting loved ones this homemade version, no one will be able to say no, and they’ll really enjoy this unique version of one of their favorite childhood cookies.
A few notes on baking: The cookies will look small on your baking sheet. Out of fear, I used heaping teaspoons for my first batch, but they will spread out to the perfect size while baking, so trust the recipe and go with the teaspoon. To flatten, I moistened the bottom of my tablespoon and gently pressed the dough down. Then I used my fingers to gently form a more perfect circle.
Homemade Oreos
Retro Desserts, Wayne Brachman via Smitten Kitchen
Makes 25 to 30 sandwich cookies
For the chocolate wafers:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsweetened Dutch process cocoa
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) room-temperature, unsalted butter
1 large egg
For the filling:
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) room-temperature, unsalted butter
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
2 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1. Set two racks in the middle of the oven. Preheat to 375 degrees.
2. In a food processor, or bowl of an electric mixer, thoroughly mix the flour, cocoa, baking soda and powder, salt, and sugar. While pulsing, or on low speed, add the butter, and then the egg. Continue processing or mixing until dough comes together in a mass.
3. Take rounded teaspoons of batter and place on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet approximately 2 inches apart. With moistened hands, slightly flatten the dough. Bake for 9 minutes, rotating once for even baking. Set baking sheets on a rack to cool.
4. To make the cream, place butter and shortening in a mixing bowl, and at low speed, gradually beat in the sugar and vanilla. Turn the mixer on high and beat for 2-3 minutes until filling is light and fluffy.
5. To assemble the cookies, in a pastry bag with a 1/2 inch, round tip, pipe teaspoon-size blobs of cream into the center of one cookie. Place another cookie, equal in size to the first, on top of the cream. Lightly press, to work the filling evenly to the outsides of the cookie. Continue this process until all the cookies have been sandwiched with cream. Dunk generously in a large glass of milk.
Roasted Acorn Squash with Cinnamon Butter
I recently made this side with an Herb-Roasted Turkey Breast (recipe coming soon) and it was a perfect fall side. As soon as I tasted the cinnamon butter I vowed to find several more dishes to smother it on. And don’t forget to roast the seeds for a crunchy snack!
Roasted Acorn Squash with Cinnamon Butter
Recipe courtesy Everyday Food
2 acorn squash, unpeeled, quartered lengthwise, and seeded
1 tablespoon olive oil
coarse salt and ground pepper
4 tablespoons butter
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss squash with oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange on sheet, cut side sown, and roast until easily pierced with a paring knife, 35 to 45 minutes.
In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium, stirring, until golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Immediately pour into a small bowl; stir in cinnamon. Place squash on a serving platter; top with cinnamon butter.
Asparagus-Lemon Soup with Grilled Rosemary Shrimp
In case you haven’t noticed, I’m really into soup this season. Ever since fall hit I’ve made one almost every week, and often make grilled cheese and boxed tomato soup for Friday night dinners. Besides its comfort food quality, one of the reasons I love soup so much is because of my immersion blender. If you love soup as much as I do, I highly recommend you invest in this amazing kitchen gadget.
It is entirely possible to ladle batch after batch of soup into a blender, but omitting this step from a recipe is so much easier. Plus, for those of us not blessed with dishwashers, it keeps everything in one pot. Before my husband gave me mine for Christmas last year, soup wasn’t exactly a hot menu item at our house. There are plenty of soups that don’t need to be pureed, like Tortilla Soup or the recently featured Mushroom-Barley Soup, but an immersion blender opens up a world of new possibilities.
I first pulled this recipe from a local California magazine long before I had an immersion blender. It sounded good, and I knew one day I’d get around to making it. And I’m so glad I did!
This soup knows how to be center stage. The contrast of pink, grilled shrimp against the silky sage green of the soup gives a beautiful presentation. When it comes to the marinade, I didn’t follow the recipe exactly. I used all of the ingredients, but less of each. I used a few spoonfuls of Dijon here, a clove of garlic here…
The consistency was medium: not too runny, but not as thick and hearty as say, Potato and Leek soup. It comes down to your personal preference. Next time I might experiment by adding some potato for added thickness.
The details are essential to this soup. Parmesan and a last drizzle of lemon add complexity, and the tangy shrimp a new texture. The recipe would feed 4-6 as a first course, but as a main dish, my husband and I ate it all.
Asparagus-Lemon Soup with Grilled Rosemary Shrimp
Recipe courtesy Chef Rick Manson, Central Coast Magazine (April 2007)
Marinade
1/3 c Dijon mustard
1/3 c fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp minced garlic
3 Tbsp fresh rosemary, minced
1 1/3 cup olive oil
2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp freshly grated black pepper
8-10 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
For the soup
2 c chopped yellow onions (about 2 large onions)
4 Tbsp butter
4 c chicken stock
1 lb asparagus
juice of one half lemon, or to taste
¼ c cream
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
freshly grated parmesan cheese
chopped parsley
To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and puree for 30 seconds or until smooth and creamy. Pour the marinade into a glass or stainless-steel casserole. Place shrimp in the marinade, pushing down on them to make sure they are completely covered in the sauce. Marinate, refrigerated for at least one hour.
Melt butter in a large pot and simmer the onions until very soft and golden, about 10 minutes, stirring often. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil.
Meanwhile, trim the tips from the asparagus and reserve. Cut about 1 inch from the “butt” ends of the asparagus spears. Don’t try to remove all the tough parts, just the very woody ends. Chop spears into ½-inch pieces and drop into the boiling chicken stock. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 15-20 minutes until asparagus is very soft.
Ladle hot soup into a food processor or blender and process until soup is very smooth. Return puree to the pot. (Nicole note: I used an immersion blender.) Add the reserved asparagus tips and simmer until they are tender but still firm, about 5 minutes. Add lemon juice, cream, and salt and pepper to taste.
Heat grill pan to medium. Grill the marinated shrimp for 1- minutes per side until cooked through.
To serve, ladle soup into bowls. Place two grilled shrimp on each bowl. Garnich with freshly grated parmesan, chopped parsley, and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
Crostini alla Romana
If a recipe calls for sage butter, I must make it. These appetizers would be tasty on their own (who doesn’t love melted cheese?) but the sage butter adds a decedent touch that is undeniable. Plus, it’s a good way to use up any extra sage you might have leftover from other holiday recipes.
Crostini alla Romana
Recipe courtesy Giada de Laurentiis
12 1/2-inch thick slices ciabatta bread
12 slices thinly sliced prosciutto (about 6 ounces)
1 pound fresh mozzarella, cut into thin slices
3 tablespoons butter
6 sage leaves
Pinch salt
Pinch freshly ground black pepper
Place the slices of ciabatta on a parchment lined baking sheet. Bake until crisp and golden around the edges, about 8 minutes. Remove the bread from the oven. Place the prosciutto slices and mozzarella on the crostini toast and return to the oven to melt the cheese, about 8 more minutes.
Meanwhile combine the butter and the sage leaves in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook until the butter is melted and starting to brown in spots and the sage leaves are crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the salt and pepper.
Remove the baking sheet from the oven. Transfer the crostini to a serving plate. Drizzle the crostini with the sage butter and serve immediately.
Snickerdoodles
I like to make Snickerdoodles every year because I can’t resist the combination of cinnamon, sugar, and soft dough. These make great gifts for neighbors or co-workers, or you can keep them all to yourself and curl up with a great movie and a glass of milk.
Snickerdoodles
Recipe courtesy Food Network Kitchens Cookbook
Yield: 2 dozen cookies
2 ¾ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking sods
½ teaspoon fine salt
½ cup shortening
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 eggs, room temperature
1 ½ cups sugar, plus 3 tablespoons
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift the flour, baking soda, and salt into a bowl.
With a handheld or standing mixer, beat together the shortening and butter. Add the 1 ½ cups sugar and continue beating until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the flour mixture slowly and blend until smooth.
In a small bowl, mix the 3 tablespoons sugar with the cinnamon. Roll the dough, by hand, into 1 ½-inch balls. Roll each ball into the cinnamon sugar and place on a parchment lined baking sheet. Using the bottom of a drinking glass, flatten each ball into disks. Bake until light brown but still moist in the center, about 12 minutes. Cool on a rack.
Butternut Squash Muffins + Two Toppings
I had leftover squash from Sausage Stuffing with Fennel and Roasted Squash and wanted to try something new. One thing I appreciated about this recipe is that you could make the entire batter in a food processor. The recipe makes at least 18 muffins, or more if you prefer them smaller. I made 12 and froze the rest of the batter for another day.
For the Frosted Cream Topping, I didn’t have a Clementine and just used lemon. I was concerned it would make the frosting too tart, but it wasn’t as disastrous as I feared it would be (though the Clementine zest would certainly help round out the flavor). The frosting really complimented the cinnamon in the muffins, which turned out incredibly moist (after 22 minutes of baking time). When the time came to defrost the extra batter, I topped the muffins with chopped pecans and brown sugar, which is another great option to try (see photos above).
Butternut Squash Muffins
Recipe courtesy Jamie Oliver
Ingredients
14 ounces butternut squash, skin on, deseeded and roughly chopped
2 1/4 cups light soft brown sugar
4 large free-range or organic eggs
Sea salt
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, unsifted
2 heaping teaspoons baking powder
Handful of walnuts, chopped
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
For the Frosted Cream Topping:
1 clementine, zested
1 lemon, zested
1/2 lemon, juiced
1/2 cup sour cream
2 heaping tablespoons icing sugar, sifted
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped out
Lavender flowers or rose petals, optional
Directions
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line your muffin tins with paper cups.
Whiz the squash in a food processor until finely chopped. Add the sugar, and crack in the eggs. Add a pinch of salt, the flour, baking powder, walnuts, cinnamon and olive oil and whiz together until well beaten. You may need to pause the machine at some point to scrape the mix down the sides with a rubber spatula. Try not to overdo it with the mixing - you want to just combine everything and no more.
Fill the paper cups with the muffin mixture. Bake in the preheated oven for 20 to 25 minutes. Check to see whether they are cooked properly by sticking a wooden skewer or a knife right into one of the muffins - if it comes out clean, they're done. If it's a bit sticky, pop them back into the oven for a little longer. Remove from the oven and leave the muffins to cool on a wire rack.
As soon as the muffins are in the oven, make your runny frosted topping. Place most of the clementine zest, all the lemon zest and the lemon juice in a bowl. Add the sour cream, icing sugar and vanilla seeds and mix well. Taste and have a think about it - adjust the amount of lemon juice or icing sugar to balance the sweet and sour. Put into the fridge until your muffins have cooled down, then spoon the topping onto the muffins.
Serve on a lovely plate (on a cake stand if you're feeling elegant, or on a rustic slab if you're more of a hunter-gatherer type!), with the rest of the clementine zest sprinkled over. For an interesting flavor and look, a few dried lavender flowers or rose petals are fantastic.
Potato and Leek Soup
This soup is one of my new favorite obsessions. When I saw Pinch My Salt’s Potato and Leek Soup it instantly went on my weekly menu and I loved it so much I know I'll be making it frequently through the fall and winter. The soup is smooth, filling, and laced with subtle flavors that will warm you up on a cool night.
I purchased the recommended six potatoes, but while peeling them decided that 1) I hate peeling potatoes and 2) four potatoes would be plenty for two people. I froze what we didn’t eat so I’ll have a great dinner ready when I don’t have time to plan something elaborate. I’ve made the necessary adjustments to the recipe below, including the addition of some garlic. This soup makes a lovely presentation on its own with some crusty bread, but I dressed up each bowl with fresh parsley and crunchy bacon.
Potato and Leek Soup
Adapted from Pinch My Salt
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 leeks, cleaned and sliced
1 large onion or 2 small onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 large russet potatoes, chopped into ½ inch chunks
3 14 oz cans low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Water
Fresh parsley and chopped bacon for garnish (optional)
Melt butter and olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add onions, leeks and garlic. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally until onions are limp, about five minutes.
Add chopped potatoes to pan and pour in the chicken broth until liquid just covers the potatoes. (Note: If you use more or less potatoes, you may need to adjust your stock measurements accordingly.) Bring soup to a boil, then cover and simmer over medium heat until potatoes are tender, about ten to fifteen minutes.
Turn off heat and let soup cool for several minutes before pureeing. Using an immersion blender, puree mixture in 60 second intervals until lumps are removed. The soup will be quite thick. Add 1/3 cup water, heavy cream, salt and pepper to taste and stir until cream is absorbed.
To serve, return pot to low heat ten minutes before serving. Ladle into bowls, sprinkle with desired garnishes and serve.
Individual Zucchini, Lemon, and Ricotta Galettes
Let me begin this post with a warning: Do not attempt this recipe after five. Between sautéing, chopping, cooling, rolling and baking, you’ll be lucky if you eat by eight o’clock. I would instead suggest the following: Prep the ingredients on Saturday and bake them the morning of Sunday brunch with your in-laws or friends. When you finally cut a bite from these individual galettes, you should share your labor with as many people as possible.
Personally, I found the most laborious task for this dish to be all the dishwashing. Now, this might not affect those of you with dishwashers, but I did more loads of dishes than I can remember now. I think it may have put me in a bad mood…I have to admit that when I began drafting this post, I had just pulled the plastic-wrapped pastry dough from the refrigerator, done another round of dishes, and had yet another fifteen minutes to wait before beginning the next step. But when the galette’s started baking and the smell of a buttery crust began filling the kitchen, I started to relax.
Because of its numerous steps and waiting periods, the saving grace of this recipe is that it can be served at room temperature. Again, unless you have an entire afternoon free, I highly recommend making each component the day before you plan on serving them. The dough can be made 2 days in advance. The zucchini and onion mixture can be sautéed, then cooled in a separate bowl, as well as the ricotta mixture. On the day of all you’ll have left is to roll out the dough (where I used lots of flour, though the recipe failed to mention it), fill them, and bake.
I tend to not do well with pastries or baking of any kind (yes, I’m working on it), but I was pleased that it seemed that even I couldn’t mess up this dish. The result is a flaky crust with a creamy, flavorful inside. I particularly enjoyed the addition of lemon. It hits your palette at the end of your bite – just enough to harmonize with the other flavors but not overpower them.
Individual Zucchini, Lemon, and Ricotta Galettes
Bon Appétit | October 2008
Crust:
2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
4 tablespoons (or more) ice water
Filling:
5 2/3 cups coarsely grated zucchini (about 1 1/3 pounds)
1 1/4 teaspoons salt, divided
4 tablespoons butter, divided
4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 small garlic clove, minced
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 1/4 cups ricotta cheese
1/3 cup plus 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 large egg
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
Fleur de sel*
For crust:
Whisk flour and salt in medium bowl. Using fingertips, rub butter into flour mixture until coarse meal forms. Add 4 tablespoons ice water, 1 tablespoonful at a time, stirring until dough forms moist clumps, and adding more water by teaspoonfuls as needed if dough is too dry. Form dough into 2 balls; flatten each into disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill at least 30 minutes. DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled. Let stand at room temperature 15 minutes before rolling out.
For filling:
Place zucchini in colander set over large bowl. Sprinkle with 3/4 teaspoon salt and toss to coat. Let drain 30 minutes. Working in batches, squeeze zucchini in kitchen towel to remove as much liquid as possible.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter with oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft and translucent, about 7 minutes. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add zucchini and lemon juice; reduce heat to medium-low and cook until zucchini is tender, stirring occasionally, about 12 minutes. Cool to room temperature.
Whisk ricotta cheese, 1/3 cup Parmesan, egg, lemon peel, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in medium bowl. Stir in cooled zucchini mixture.
Preheat oven to 425°F. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. Roll out 1 dough disk to 1/8-inch thickness. Using 6-inch-diameter plate, cut out 3 dough rounds. Repeat with remaining dough. Place 3 dough rounds on each baking sheet. (Nicole note: I cut each round into thirds, gently rolled those into small circles, and rolled them out using plenty of flour. I used the plate technique only once. It’s easy enough to keep the dough in a fairly even circle, and any unevenness won’t really matter when you roll up the sides before baking.)
Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Spoon 1/2 cup filling into center of 1 dough round, leaving 1 1/4- to 1 1/2-inch border. Carefully fold up border, pleating dough edges to create round pastry with about 2 to 21/2 inches of exposed filling in center. Repeat with remaining filling and dough rounds. Brush crusts with melted butter. Drizzle any remaining melted butter over filling in centers. Sprinkle galettes with remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle lightly with fleur de sel.
Bake galettes 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F. Bake until crust is golden and filling is set and begins to brown, about 25 minutes longer. Run spatula under galettes to loosen. Let rest 5 minutes. do ahead Can be made 4 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.
Serve individual galettes hot or at room temperature.
*A type of sea salt; available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.
Dark-Chocolate Cake with Ganache Frosting
It all started with wedding cake. When my husband and I got married in 2006, we had the most amazing almond cake iced with amaretto buttercream. Long after our big day we still talked about how delicious it was and salivated over the memory eating it. I liked to cook, and was confident I could recreate it for our first anniversary. Then I hit a few snags.
My first problem was finding a worthy recipe. I spent days testing recipes I found on the internet, making notes in hopes to combine the perfect elements of each to create one ideal batter. The icing was my second problem (not making enough to cover the entire cake), and didn't even want to think about the fondant. Third, I was missing a cake stand and icing knife. I had a vision that was impossible to fulfill, and it was during one of my many attempts at this cake that I simply could not take the pressure of having to wash my mixing bowls so they could be reused (no dishwasher), spreading out my ingredients, perfectly measuring flour and folding whipped egg whites into chocolate sauce without deflating them.
I threw up my hands and surveyed the damage. My kitchen was a mess. I’d already done two rounds of dishes and still the sink was full of saucepans dripping with icing, fudge, and cake batter. I was miserable, and convinced that in order to regain my happiness I had to give up baking.
Fast forward to 2008. I have a slightly more modern kitchen (I waved goodbye to the avocado green oven and said hello to a gas range), and have regained an interest in improving my baking skills. Having a friend for dinner is always an excuse for cake so I planned to try Everyday Food’s Dark-Chocolate Cake. I’m thrilled to announce that…drum roll please... IT WASN’T A DISASTER! The cake is dense, the frosting is rich, and one sliver (plus a tall glass of cold milk) is all you need for satisfaction.
Dark-Chocolate Cake with Ganache Frosting
Recipe courtesy Everyday Food
Dark-Chocolate Cake
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pans
1/2 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa (spooned and leveled), plus more for pans
2 cups all-purpose flour (spooned and leveled)
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups packed light-brown sugar
2 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks, room temperature
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup low-fat buttermilk
Dark-Chocolate Ganache
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter two 8-inch round cake pans; dust with cocoa, tapping out excess. Line bottom of each pan with a round of parchment paper; set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; set aside.
2. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs and yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition; beat in chocolate and vanilla. With mixer on low, alternately add flour mixture in three parts and buttermilk in two, beginning and ending with flour mixture.
3. Divide batter between prepared pans; smooth tops. Bake until a toothpick inserted in center of a cake comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes (Nicole note: My cakes were done at 35 minutes.) Cool in pans 15 minutes; run a knife around edge of each pan, and invert cakes onto a wire rack to cool completely.
4. Set a rimmed baking sheet upside down on a work surface. Place one cake on sheet, and spread top with 1/3 of ganache. Place second cake on top, and spread remaining ganache over top and sides of cake. Using two wide metal spatulas, carefully transfer frosted cake to a serving platter.
Ganache Frosting
Ingredients
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 pound bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped
Directions
In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups heavy cream, 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar, and 1/8 teaspoon salt to a boil. Remove from heat; add 1 pound bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped, and let stand, without stirring, for 1 minute. Whisk just until combined. Refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until spreadable, about 1 hour.
Sausage Stuffing with Fennel and Roasted Squash
It was another side + salad night in the CAF kitchen. Tonight’s star was a Bon Appetit Thanksgiving side from their “The Stuffing: One Recipe, Four Ways” feature in November’s issue. I made only two minor alterations: 1) I used turkey sausage (available at the store) instead of pork (not available, and I wasn’t going to drive around town looking for it). 2) I chose not to use marjoram and didn’t miss it at all. To check Bon Appetit’s other stuffing variations, click here.
Sausage Stuffing with Fennel and Roasted Squash
Recipe courtesy Bon Appetit
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
4 cups 1/2- to 3/4-inch cubes peeled seeded butternut squash (from one 1 3/4-pound squash)
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
3 cups chopped onions (about 1 pound)
2 cups chopped celery (4 to 5 stalks)
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped fresh fennel bulb (about 1 medium)
1 1-pound pork sausage log
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
2 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram
12 cups (generous) 1-inch cubes day-old pain rustique or ciabatta bread with crust (about 1 1/4 pounds)
2 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 cup (or more) low-salt chicken broth
Preparation
Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray rimmed baking sheet with nonstick spray. Scatter squash on sheet in single layer; sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Roast squash until tender, stirring occasionally, about 55 minutes. Transfer to large bowl; cool.
Melt butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add onions, celery, and fennel. Sauté 8 minutes. Add sausage. Sauté until vegetables are tender and sausage is cooked through, breaking up sausage with fork, about 10 minutes. Add all herbs; sauté 1 minute longer. Add to bowl with squash. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, cover, and chill.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Divide bread between 2 rimmed baking sheets. Bake until bread is crusty but not hard, reversing sheets after 5 minutes, 10 to 12 minutes total. Transfer to very large bowl and cool.
Butter 13x9x2-inch baking dish. Stir vegetable mixture into bread. Whisk eggs, salt, and pepper in small bowl to blend well; whisk in 1 cup broth. Add egg mixture to stuffing, tossing to combine evenly and adding more broth by 1/4 cupfuls if dry. Transfer stuffing to prepared dish.
Bake stuffing uncovered until cooked through and brown and crusty on top, 50 to 60 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes.
Mushroom-Barley Soup
In the next few sentences I'll be explaining why it’s been so long since I’ve eaten mushrooms, but please don't let this story deter you from making this wonderfully easy soup. I didn’t always have such a strong aversion, but one negative experience nearly ruined me. I was eating at one of my favorite Italian restaurants – the small, only locals know the address kind of place – when I decided to branch out (my fatal mistake). I always ordered the pumpkin ravioli but somehow convinced myself to try the mushroom polenta. I had recently seen an episode on Food Network that featured polenta as a lovely side dish similar to mashed potatoes, but what came out of the restaurant kitchen was not what I had in mind.
The polenta was a square block smothered in mushroom ragu. For me, it was actually inedible. I have never – never – had an experience where I couldn’t actually eat what was on my plate. I took one bite, maybe two, and was so repulsed by the smell that I just couldn’t put any more on my fork. My husband, who enjoys most foods, was equally repulsed. We still frequented the restaurant (avoiding all things mushroom, of course), but after that night I forgot about the vegetable altogether until I saw a picture of this soup in Everyday Food.
I realize this appalling story might not be the best introduction to the recipe being featured, but let’s be clear that it was this very recipe that pulled me out of my mushroom coma. This soup comes together very quickly (under 30 minutes) – perfect for Cooking After Five-types. My barley was not quick cooking, so before starting on the soup I cooked it according to the package directions so it would be ready when I was. And when I curled up on the couch and took in a big mouthful of mushrooms, I was very, very relieved.
Mushroom-Barley Soup
Recipe adapted from Everyday Food
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/4 pounds white mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
Coarse salt and ground pepper
4 1/2 cups canned reduced-sodium beef broth
1 cup barley (quick cooking or pearled)
1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 chunk (1 ounce) Parmesan, shaved with a vegetable peeler
Directions
If barley is not quick cooking, cook according to package directions. In a medium pot, bring 6 cups water to a boil and add barley. Reduce heat and simmer for 50-60 minutes until barley is tender.
For the soup, in a large saucepan, heat oil over medium-high. Add mushrooms, onion, garlic, and thyme; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables have softened, 6 to 8 minutes.
Add broth and 2 cups water to pan; bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to a simmer; add barley (if quick cooking), and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. If barley is already cooked, add it now and stir together. Remove soup from heat; stir in parsley and lemon juice. Garnish with shaves of Parmesan cheese and serve.
Brussels Sprout and Cauliflower Gratin + Fall Produce Obsessions
It’s that time of year again. Pumpkins are overflowing in the produce aisles, and squash varieties are everywhere you turn. Bon Appetit’s November issue recently made me giddy with all the delicious Thanksgiving inspired recipes it offered. So I decided to make a plan. I may not be in charge of my family’s Thanksgiving menu this year, but you can bet I won’t be missing out on all the season’s offerings.
With many recipes starred and several other food magazines yet to be received, I’ve decided to work all kinds of holiday dishes into my weekly menus. This means that sometimes we’ll be having side dishes for dinner, which I’m fine with. Since there are only two of us, unless we have company (giving me an excuse to go all out) I’d rather highlight one dish than risk having way too much leftover food.
Tonight was one of those side dish events. I served this gratin with an arugula salad and we devoured everything until it was gone. And let me tell you, it smelled good even before it started baking. The warmed sage, toasted breadcrumbs and steamy vegetables covered in melting cheese were mouth watering. And once a bite finally reached my mouth, it was even better.
And since you're here, let me say a few things about Brussels Sprouts, the sometimes overlooked, misunderstood vegetable. I thought through my food memories and could not remember an instance when I actually ate one. My childhood was not tainted with images of being force-fed an overcooked variety, but their bad rap is due to just that. Overcooking actually releases sulfur compounds in the vegetable that give it an unpleasant smell. When cooked properly, they possess a delicate nutty flavor, complimented well in this dish by Parmesan cheese and their cousin in the vegetable world, cauliflower. If you have an aversion to Brussels sprouts, try this recipe and you just might be over your fear.
Brussels Sprout and Cauliflower Gratin
Recipe courtesy Bon Appetit
1 1/2 pounds brussels sprouts, trimmed, quartered lengthwise through core
1 1 1/2- to 1 3/4-pound head of cauliflower, trimmed, cut into small florets
2 3/4 cups heavy whipping cream
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup plain dry breadcrumbs
1/2 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
3 cups grated Parmesan cheese, divided
Preparation
Fill large bowl with ice and cold water. Cook brussels sprouts in large pot of generously salted boiling water 2 minutes. Add cauliflower to same pot; cook until vegetables are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes longer. Drain. Transfer vegetables to bowl of ice water to cool. Drain well.
Combine cream, shallots, and sage in large saucepan. Bring to boil. Reduce heat; simmer until mixture is reduced to 2 1/2 cups, about 10 minutes. Season with salt. Remove from heat. Cool slightly.
Heat oil in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add breadcrumbs; stir until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to bowl; cool. Stir in pine nuts and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
Butter 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish; arrange half of vegetables in dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then 1 1/2 cups Parmesan. Arrange remaining vegetables evenly over, then sprinkle with remaining 1 1/2 cups Parmesan. Pour cream mixture evenly over. DO AHEAD Breadcrumb topping and gratin can be made 1 day ahead. Cover separately and chill. Bring to room temperature before continuing.
Preheat oven to 375°F. Cover gratin with foil. Bake covered 40 minutes. Uncover; sprinkle breadcrumb topping over and bake uncovered 15 minutes longer.
Penne with Beef and Arugula
They say you can tell a lot about a person by the food they eat, the books they read, and the company they keep. In the food world, you can tell a lot about a recipe by how often you make it. If you keep it around year after year, or if you make it once and then forget it.
This recipe is a favorite of mine, and is in the habit of winning over anyone I feed it to. I’ve made it enough times now that I can do it from memory, though failing to glance at the recipe has meant that on occasion I’ve left out basil, used spinach in place of arugula, and forgotten the olive oil all together (oops!).
There is a lot to love about this dish. The tomatoes are juicy and sweet, the steak is tender, and the balsamic sauce puckers a bit in your mouth. Whenever I can't think of what to make, I often turn to this recipe and ease comfortably into very familiar territory.
Penne with Beef and Arugula
Recipe adapted from Giada de Laurentiis
1 (1 pound) New York strip steak (any cut of meat you have is fine)
1 garlic clove, minced
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons
1 pound penne pasta (I often use whole wheat penne which works very well with such a flavorful dressing)
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for steak and pasta water
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for steak
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
2 cups chopped arugula (spinach does no harm if you already have it on hand, just add a bit more pepper when tossing the pasta together)
Directions
Season the steak with salt and freshly ground black pepper, In a skillet, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Cook steak about 7 minutes per side. Remove the meat from pan and let it rest for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the steak or cut into cubes. Set aside.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of pasta water.
In a small bowl, whisk together the balsamic vinegar, Dijon mustard, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, fresh herbs, and 3/4 cup olive oil. In a large bowl toss the pasta with half of the salad dressing and the reserved pasta water. Add the arugula and steak, more dressing, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed. Toss together then serve immediately with shavings of Parmesan.
Tuna and Green Bean Salad
Since I went to college near wine country in California, I became obsessed with picnicking shortly after turning 21. With their mature oak trees and captivating views, wineries are absolutely ideal for relaxing the afternoon away. Whenever we made the trip, our plan was usually the same: Leave at 10 am, arrive by 11 am, head to Winery 1, then Winery 2, then stop for a scenic picnic around 1 pm and if we weren't too tired (it's amazing how wine tasting and sunshine takes the energy right out of you), visit Winery 3 before heading back.
Part of the fun was always deciding what to pack in our picnic. This was one of the first salads I started with several yeas ago, and though I have a new affinity for Orzo with Grilled Shrimp and Pesto, I still rely on this salad for picnics. Besides, with all the picnics I tend to go on, the same salad at them all would get a bit boring. To ensure freshness, separate the salad from the dressing while you transport it, and toss just before serving.
In terms of picnic menus, I like to have a main dish (like this salad, or grilled steak with pesto dipping sauce, or Barley Salad with Roasted Tomatoes) to anchor the meal, several sides like cheese and crackers, fruit, pita chips and hummus, and something sweet like brownies for dessert. Aside from a bottle of your favorite wine (many wineries sell their bottles pre-chilled for just this occasion), it’s all you need for a perfect afternoon.
Tuna and Green Bean Salad
Recipe courtesy Giada de Laurentiis
1 1/2 pounds slender green beans, trimmed, halved crosswise
3 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
2 large red potatoes, diced
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon dried oregano
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
9 ounces canned tuna packed in oil, drained
Cook the green beans in a large pot of boiling water until crisp-tender, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Using a mesh strainer, transfer the green beans to a large bowl of ice water to cool completely. Drain the green beans and pat dry with a towel. Add 2 teaspoons of salt to the same cooking liquid and bring the liquid to a simmer. Add the potatoes to the simmering liquid and cook until they are just tender but still hold their shape, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the potatoes to the ice water to cool completely. Drain the potatoes and pat dry with a towel.
In a small bowl, whisk the lemon juice, garlic, oil, oregano, 1 teaspoon salt and 3/4 teaspoon pepper. Place the tomatoes, basil and parsley in a large serving bowl. Add the tuna and toss gently to combine. Add the green beans and potatoes and gently combine. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to coat.
Pizza with Grilled Pear and Prosciutto
I stumbled upon the idea for this pizza while having lunch at one of my favorite Santa Barbara spots, Fresco. Their special pizza of the day was made with grilled pears and prosciutto, which sounded too delicious to pass up. I immediately wrote down the ingredients in my notebook so I could recreate it at home.
What sets this pizza apart is the cheese. I’ve made it several times now, but once accidentally grabbed Fontina cheese instead of Manchego – big mistake! Manchego cheese is essential for this pizza. Its mild flavor perfectly compliments the grilled pear and peppery arugula. Fontina (as I discovered) is way too salty for this dish. I’ve also made this pizza and forgotten the arugula. Yes, it tastes fine without it, but arugula not only adds a sharp bite, but beautiful color. Trust me, it’s much prettier with all the ingredients.
I also use honey to grill the pears and then drizzle a little bit over the hot, bubbly pizza when it comes out of the oven. I find the sweetness enhances every bite, and it’s the final touch that makes this pizza so, so good.
PIZZA WITH GRILLED PEAR AND PROSCIUTTO
Pizza dough (recipe here)
1 medium pear, thinly sliced and drizzled with honey
1 tbsp. honey
4 slices prosciutto
8 oz Manchego cheese, grated
½ cup arugula
Heat grill pan to medium and add prosciutto. After several minutes, turn and cook other side until it begins to crisp. Place on a paper towel to drain. When cooled, chop into small pieces and set aside.
In the same pan, add pears and grill for 3-5 minutes on each side, until grill marks form and pear is softened. Set aside.
To assemble pizza, place dough on a sheet pan or pizza stone and sprinkle with 6 oz. Manchego cheese. (When baking pizza, I always toss a small handful of cornmeal on the board to keep the pizza from sticking). Then add pears and sprinkle with prosciutto and arugula. Top with remaining cheese.
Bake at 450F for 8-10 minutes (cook time may vary depending on your oven), until cheese is melted and the edges begin to brown. Before slicing, drizzle with remaining honey.
Champagne Risotto
I love risotto! Here is another version of this versatile and delicious dish. Creamy Arborio rice is woken up with bits of salty prosciutto and crunchy asparagus. When I made this I pulled out our wedding china to make things extra special. I don't think fancy dinnerware should be saved for the holidays, so I try to use it several times a year "just because."
*Recipe note: This recipe makes a batch perfect for two when combined with another side like a fresh salad. If you're serving 4, or just want larger portions, double the amount of rice and liquid.
Champagne Risotto
Recipe courtesy Giada de Laurentiis
4 thin slices prosciutto
3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
12 asparagus spears, cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons butter, divided
1 shallot, finely chopped
¾ cup Arborio rice or medium-grain white rice
¾ cup Champagne
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
12 asparagus spears, cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons butter, divided
1 shallot, finely chopped
¾ cup Arborio rice or medium-grain white rice
¾ cup Champagne
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the slices of prosciutto on a lightly greased baking sheet. Bake until the prosciutto slices are almost completely crisp, about 6 to 8 minutes. The slices will crisp up even more as they cool. Reserve for garnish.
In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer. Blanch the asparagus in the chicken stock for 2 minutes. Remove the asparagus with a slotted spoon. Set the asparagus aside and keep the chicken stock at a low simmer.
In another medium saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add the shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the Arborio rice and stir to coat in the butter. Continue toasting the rice, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes more. Add the Champagne and simmer until the liquid has almost evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add ½ cup of the simmering broth and stir until almost completely absorbed, about 2 minutes.
Continue cooking the rice, adding the broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly and allowing each addition of broth to absorb before adding the next, until the rice is tender but still firm to the bite and the mixture is creamy, about 20 minutes total. Remove from the heat. Gently stir in the asparagus, remaining butter, Parmesan, salt, and pepper. Spoon the risotto into serving dishes and garnish by breaking the crisp prosciutto into smaller pieces over the top of the risotto. Serve immediately.
Arugula Salad with Warm Goat Cheese
I recently had some goat cheese left over from making Chicken with Goat Cheese and Basil and couldn't resist making this salad. The combination of creamy dessing with gooey, crunchy cheese is perfect as a light lunch or impressive side with something heavier like salmon or steak.
This recipe is for a lot of salad, so if you're only cooking for two you'll have plenty of leftover lettuce and dressing to make salads all week. And if you don't have arugula, any mixed greens will work wonderfully.
Arugula Salad with Warm Goat Cheese
Recipe adapted from Ina Garten
1 (11-ounce) log plain or herbed Montrachet
2 extra-large egg whites, beaten with 1 tablespoon water
Fresh white bread crumbs
For the dressing:
2 tablespoons good cider vinegar
2 tablespoons good Champagne vinegar
Pinch sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 extra-large egg yolk
1 cup good olive oil
Enough mixed salad greens for 6 servings
Olive oil and unsalted butter, for frying
Slice the Montrachet into 12 (1/2-inch-thick) slices. (The easiest way to slice goat cheese is to use a length of dental floss.) Dip each slice into the beaten egg whites, then the bread crumbs, being sure the cheese is thoroughly coated. Place the slices on a rack and chill them for at least 15 minutes.For the dressing, place the vinegars, sugar, salt, pepper, and egg yolk in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade and blend for 1 minute. With the motor running, slowly pour the olive oil through the feed tube until the vinaigrette is thickened. Season, to taste.
Toss the salad greens with enough dressing to moisten, then divide them among 6 plates.
Melt 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a saute pan over medium-high heat until just under smoking. Cook the goat cheese rounds quickly on both sides until browned on the outside but not melted inside. Top each salad with 2 (or as many as you'd like!) warm rounds and serve.
Spaghetti Bolognese
I had high hopes for this sauce. This isn’t to say I was disappointed, but I hit some uncontrollable cooking snags along the way. The Gap Fire began on July 1. On July 6, the afternoon I attempted this recipe, the power went out twice while I was cooking. Since this recipe takes hours to complete, you can bet I was furious (although sympathetic to the fireman, evacuated families, etc.). But come on. The power had been going out for four days straight, usually beginning in the evening, between 6-7 pm. An outage at two o’clock in the afternoon was completely unexpected. When the first outage hit, I had just put the meat in the pan.
As the meat (and my electric stove) began cooling down, the lights returned so I continued browning the meat. By this time I had lost track of how long it had actually been in the pan so consequently this step was likely cut short. And as Anne will tell you, this step is REALLY important.
Just as I turned the meat to brown the other side, power was lost again. This time it was out for at least 45 minutes, and I was tabulating the lost minutes in my mind. 3 ½ hours of cooking pushes dinner back to 7:00 pm, wait, 7:30 pm. I was starting to give up hope when the power finally returned.
Eventually the tomato paste and wine were added. The mixture turns a beautiful burgundy color, and then it’s time for the “add water and wait” game. My only piece of advice with this recipe is to be patient. Don’t try making Bolognese unless you have time. During the “water and wait” step you will be very tempted to cut it short – don’t! The process of adding water and cooking it down is what creates a thick sauce that holds together instead of separating when it reaches the pasta. In the end, the meat wasn’t as brown as it should have been (translation: less flavor), but given the circumstances I’m very pleased with how this dish turned out.
Spaghetti Bolognese
Recipe courtesy Anne Burrell
1 large onion or 2 small, cut into 1-inch dice
2 large carrots, cut into 1/2-inch dice
3 ribs celery, cut into 1-inch dice
4 cloves garlic
Extra-virgin olive oil, for the pan
Kosher salt
3 pounds ground chuck, brisket or round or combination
2 cups tomato paste
3 cups hearty red wine
Water
3 bay leaves
1 bunch thyme, tied in a bundle
1 pound spaghetti
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
High quality extra-virgin olive oil, for finishing
In a food processor, puree onion, carrots, celery, and garlic into a coarse paste. In a large pan over medium heat, coat pan with oil. Add the pureed veggies and season generously with salt. Bring the pan to a medium-high heat and cook until all the water has evaporated and they become nice and brown, stirring frequently, about 15 to 20 minutes. Be patient, this is where the big flavors develop.
Add the ground beef and season again generously with salt. BROWN THE BEEF! Brown food tastes good. Don't rush this step. Cook another 15 to 20 minutes.
Add the tomato paste and cook until brown about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the red wine. Cook until the wine has reduced by half, another 4 to 5 minutes.
Add water to the pan until the water is about 1 inch above the meat. Toss in the bay leaves and the bundle of thyme and stir to combine everything. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer, stirring occasionally. As the water evaporates you will gradually need to add more, about 2 to 3 cups at a time. Don't be shy about adding water during the cooking process, you can always cook it out. This is a game of reduce and add more water. This is where big rich flavors develop. If you try to add all the water in the beginning you will have boiled meat sauce rather than a rich, thick meaty sauce. Stir and TASTE frequently. Season with salt, if needed (you probably will). Simmer for 3 1/2 to 4 hours.
During the last 30 minutes of cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat to cook the spaghetti. Pasta water should ALWAYS be well salted. Salty as the ocean! TASTE IT! If your pasta water is under seasoned it doesn't matter how good your sauce is, your complete dish will always taste under seasoned. When the water is at a rolling boil add the spaghetti and cook for 1 minute less than it calls for on the package. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.
While the pasta is cooking remove 1/2 of the ragu from the pot and reserve.
Drain the pasta and add to the pot with the remaining ragu. Stir or toss the pasta to coat with the sauce. Add some of the reserved sauce, if needed, to make it about an even ratio between pasta and sauce. Add the reserved pasta cooking water and cook the pasta and sauce together over a medium heat until the water has reduced. Turn off the heat and give a big sprinkle of Parmigiano and a generous drizzle of the high quality finishing olive oil. Toss or stir vigorously. Divide the pasta and sauce into serving bowls or 1 big pasta bowl. Top with remaining grated Parmigiano. Serve immediately.