I’ve been introduced to kale this winter (Thanks, Bon Appetit). Kale is so good for you, it’s really something worth putting on the menu once a week while it’s in season. This galette is a wonderful way to start, especially if you’re unfamiliar with kale, because the leaves are sautéed with garlic and hide between layers of thin potatoes to surprise your taste buds. The flip maneuver takes a bit of finesse, but it’s easy enough and ensures that both sides are golden and slightly crispy. I served this with a dollop of sour cream and chives, and it was perfect for a light dinner.
Kale and Potato Galette
Recipe courtesy Gourmet
1 lb kale, tough stems and center ribs discarded
1 tablespoon stick (1/2 cup) butter, 6 of the tablespoons melted and cooled
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 lb russet (baking) potatoes (4 medium)
Cook kale in a 4- to 6-quart pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, until just tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water to stop cooking. Drain well, squeezing handfuls of kale to extract excess moisture, then coarsely chop. Heat 2 tablespoons (unmelted) butter in skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 1 minute.
Add kale, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and sauté, stirring, until kale is tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and clean skillet. Peel potatoes and thinly slice crosswise (1/16 inch thick) with slicer. Working quickly to prevent potatoes from discoloring, generously brush bottom of skillet with some of melted butter and cover with one third of potato slices, overlapping slightly.
Dab potatoes with some of melted butter. Spread half of kale over potatoes and sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Cover with half of remaining potato slices and dab with butter, then top with remaining kale. Sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Top with remaining potatoes and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Brush a sheet of foil with melted butter, then brush galette with any remaining butter and place foil, buttered side down, on top. Place a 10-inch heavy skillet on top of foil to weight galette.
Cook galette over moderate heat until underside is golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove top skillet and foil. Wearing oven mitts, carefully slide galette onto a baking sheet and invert skillet over it. Holding them together, invert galette, browned side up, back into skillet. Cook, uncovered, over moderate heat until underside is golden brown and potatoes are tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Slide onto a serving plate. Galette can be made 6 hours ahead and cooled, uncovered, then kept, on a baking sheet covered with foil, at room temperature. Remove foil, then reheat in a 425°F oven until heated through and crisp, about 20 minutes.
Farmhouse Butternut Squash Soup
The last time I made butternut squash soup, I took the easy route. Oh, I made a crunchy sage topping, but you couldn’t find me breaking down squash that night. Until recently, I had major problems with my peeler. My old peeler was ok for thin carrot skins, but completely useless when it came to thicker-skinned vegetables. That’s when I turned to the boxed soup version and Costco’s pre-cut bags that spoiled me over the holidays (which, by the way, I completely endorse). Now, armed with my set of three brightly colored blade cutters from Williams-Sonoma, there’s nothing I can’t handle, even after a long day at work.
The slight sweetness of the apple really cuts through the heartiness of the squash, but the flavors blend well. The recipe didn't mention anything about saving the squash seeds, but I rinsed and toasted them, and used them as garnish along with the crispy bacon. A dash of cider vinegar wakes everything up, and even though I only had two slices of bacon in the fridge and no carrots, this soup was still a hit.
Farmhouse Butternut Squash Soup
Recipe adapted from Gourmet
4 bacon slices
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
2 lb butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1/2 lb carrots, chopped
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and chopped
3 thyme sprigs
2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
3 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 cups water
1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar
Cook bacon in a 4- to 6-qt heavy pot over medium heat until crisp. Transfer bacon to paper towels to drain.
Add garlic and caraway seeds to fat in pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is pale golden, about 1 minute. Add squash, carrots, apple, thyme, bay leaves, broth, water, 3/4 tsp salt, and 1/2 tsp pepper and boil, uncovered, until vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Discard thyme and bay leaves.
Purée about 4 cups soup in a blender, in batches if necessary, until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Return to pot and season with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Serve topped with crumbled bacon.
Manchego with Honey Butter Sauce
Write these items on your grocery list: Manchego cheese, honey, and butter. Now, don't think. Just get what I told you and you will not be sorry. Manchego on its own is a delicious cheese, but just imagine the nutty flavor of brown butter and the sweetness of honey harmonizing in your mouth. Plus the light crunch of a water cracker…I can’t believe I almost didn’t post this because it was “just a little appetizer!”
I sat for several minutes thinking of how I could describe this to you, which adjectives could convince you of its magic, but I concluded that words, in this case, are somewhat useless. And the more of them I use, the more you must read before heading to the store for the main ingredient.
Manchego with Honey Butter Sauce
Ingredients 4 tbsp. butter
1 tablespoons honey
Manchego cheese wedge
Sea salt
Directions Melt butter in small saute pan, and cook until it turns a golden brown. Drizzle in honey and stir to incorporate. Pour over cheese wedge and sprinkle with sea salt.
Glazed Lime Cake
Martha Stewart’s Lime Meltaways were the first lime-themed sweets I made that truly captured my attention (alas, I made them before my blogging days so there are no photos to share, but Smitten Kitchen made them so you can see how enticing they really are). Now I can't get enough of these small green wonders.
I’m not in the habit of baking during the week. Baking requires time, energy, accurate measuring, and a certain amount of patience to be successful. When I get home from work and need to magically put ingredients together in under an hour, baking is the last thing on my mind. Now, give me a lazy Saturday or Sunday afternoon and there is always time to precisely follow directions and even enjoy a vanilla latte or a quick magazine read while my treats are baking away in the oven.
Enter Wednesday. It's the one day a week that my husband goes jogging after work, leaving me with plenty of time to bake. Thankfully, this cake is simple. Its ingredients come together in a stand mixer and head straight to the cake pan. During the 35 minutes it bakes you can easily prep ingredients for your main course and finish the glaze that will be drizzled on top. Aside from an extra round of dishes, it didn’t appear to be more work than usual, and ended our evening on a sweet note.
Glazed Lime Cake
Recipe courtesy Bon Appetit
Ingredients
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, room temperature
2 1/2 cups powdered sugar, divided
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/4 cup milk
1 1/3 cups self-rising flour
2 to 3 large limes
1/4 cup sugar
Preparation
Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 8-inch square baking pan. Using electric mixer, cream butter and 1 1/2 cups powdered sugar in large bowl. Beat in eggs 1 at a time. Beat in milk, then flour. Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top. Bake cake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 35 minutes.
Meanwhile, finely grate enough lime peel to measure 1 tablespoon. Halve limes; squeeze enough juice to measure 1/4 cup. Mix peel, juice, and 1/4 cup sugar in small bowl. Set lime syrup aside.
Using skewer, poke holes all over baked cake. Spoon half of lime syrup (about 3 tablespoons) over hot cake. Cool.
Whisk 1 cup powdered sugar into remaining lime syrup; drizzle over cake. Let stand 1 hour. Cut cake into squares.
Crispy Black Bean Tacos
For a southern Californian, Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes impart a certain comfort-food quality. The cooking style is plentiful, authentic in many venues from taco carts to restaurants, and I've stood in long lines to claim my handmade tortillas at Santa Barbara's La Super Rica Taqueria. Two years ago during a terrible lapse in judgment, I ordered fajitas at a Mexican restaurant in Vermont. Though I'm not an expert, I know fajitas should not be served with carrots, but they were nestled among the onions and peppers, along with ketchup on the side. So sad. I think it's fair to say that there are some things (like clam chowder), that New England does exceptionally well. Mexican isn't one of them.
Fajitas were one of my favorite foods to make when I began cooking more seriously in college. They were easy, flavorful, and involved guacamole – always a good thing. For years it was always the same: grilled chicken, yellow, red and orange peppers, caramelized onions, and sour cream, cheese, and guacamole for garnish. I finally branched out to steak fajitas, but have recently put them aside (Ok, I make them once a month instead of once a week) and have been more adventurous with dishes like beer battered fish tacos (very California), and these Crispy Black Bean tacos.
It’s also helpful that I actually eat black beans now. Beans didn't appeal to me growing up, but over the years I’ve seen the light. These little tacos disappear fast but are deeply satisfying. The shell is crisp, slaw crunchy and sweet, and feta mild but very complimentary. I was so absorbed in eating them that I missed a solid five minutes of American Idol. Thank goodness it’s now possible to rewind live television.
Crispy Black Bean Tacos
Ingredients
1 15-ounce can black beans, drained
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
5 teaspoons olive oil, divided
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
2 cups coleslaw mix
2 green onions, chopped
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
4 white or yellow corn tortillas
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
Bottled chipotle hot sauce or other hot sauce
Preparation
Place beans and cumin in small bowl; partially mash. Mix 2 teaspoons olive oil and lime juice in medium bowl; add coleslaw, green onions, and cilantro and toss to coat. Season slaw to taste with salt and pepper.
Heat 3 teaspoons olive oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add tortillas in single layer. Spoon 1/4 of bean mixture onto half of each tortilla; cook 1 minute. Fold tacos in half. Cook until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Fill tacos with feta and slaw. Pass hot sauce alongside.
Wine Resolutions
Before we get too far into the new year, I must say something about resolutions. Oh, I can hear the groans. But don't worry, I have one resolution you won't be able to resist trying. Earlier this month, the Wall Street Journal ran a column outlining 20 new things to try this year – all with wine at the center of each task.
I’m planning to tack this list to my fridge and cross off every one before December 31, 2009. As I do, I’ll post my results throughout the year, and invite you join in. Today I triumphantly crossed out #18: Buy a new corkscrew. Turns out the one I have is less than a year old, and not worn enough to warrant finding a replacement.
For 2009, a To-Do List for Wine
Taste a flight, find a new store and lose that old corkscrew. A checklist of 20 things to try this year.
By DOROTHY J. GAITER AND JOHN BRECHER
Happy new year! Here's a checklist of 20 things to do this year that will make wine more fun, whether you are just beginning your wine journey or are far along the road.
1) Try a Wine From a Different Country (4/14/09)
A country whose wines are new to you. Have you ever had a wine from Croatia? Uruguay? Georgia? Next time you see one, grab it. They're out there.
2) Go to a Wine Bar and Have a Flight of Wine (5/28/09)
If you have been to some wine bars before, try a wine bar you haven't visited.
3) Order the Cheapest Wine on a Restaurant's Wine List (9/29/09)
Really, just screw up your courage and do it. Restaurateurs know that many people won't order the cheapest wine on the list for fear of appearing miserly, which is why the second-cheapest wine on the list is often the worst deal. The cheapest wine can sometimes be a pretty good deal.
4) Open a Sparkler at Home for No Reason at All (12/27/09)
There are so many reasonably priced bubblies these days that they can be cheaper than ordinary Merlot or Chardonnay. Put a bottle in the fridge and open it for dinner. Yes, then it will seem like a special occasion, but that's the point.
5) Take Notes on a Fine Wine From Beginning to End (2/26/09)
Make a notation of the time when you open it, then drink slowly and take notes throughout. Whether it's a fine white Burgundy or a good Cabernet, the wine will change with time, air and warmth. When you go back over your notes, you might be amazed at the changes. It's like pictures of children: You know they've grown up, but it's only when you look at the old pictures that you realize just how much.
6) Have a Sauternes (12/27/09)
This -- the real thing, from France's Bordeaux region -- is the classic sweet wine. Yes, it will most likely cost you some real money, but, fortunately, they do come in half bottles. Still, Sauternes is underappreciated and therefore, in its own way, a good deal. There are few more life-affirming wines, especially with some age, and even that half bottle could last several nights, making it more cost-effective.
7) Have a Blind Tasting (12/27/09)
Maybe you want to go whole-hog and invite over a few friends and ask everyone to bring, say, a 2005 Bordeaux under $20 in a brown-paper lunch bag. But doing that at home with your significant other and just two bottles of the same kind of wine is also fun and instructive. See our column about doing this.
8) Organize Your Labels (12/27/09)
We've heard from many people over the years who have saved wine labels, but just keep them in a big pile somewhere. Get a photo album and put them in. Maybe jot a little note for the special ones about where you drank it or why you liked it. Looking at them will bring back savory memories.
9) Visit the Closest Winery to Your Home (12/29/09)
It's amazing to us how many people haven't visited the winery next-door. Now that there are commercial wineries in all 50 states, there is likely to be a winery near you. If you have visited the closest winery, drop in to the second-closest, and so on. You'll be amazed at the diversity of wines and styles in your own neck of the woods.
10) Attend a Winemaker’s Dinner at a Restaurant (12/27/09)
Keep your eyes open and you will find plenty. They are not only fun, but often can be a very good value. Sometimes wine stores sponsor these, too.
11) Have Fun With Stemware (12/27/09)
Experiment. Try a good sparkling wine in a regular wine glass. Pour the same fine wine into two different kinds or sizes of glasses. We all have our “everyday” glasses, but they can get boring if you don’t watch out. Engage all of your senses when you drink wine.
12) Find a New Wine Store (10/30/09)
Buy a bottle at a wine store where you have never shopped before. With all of the good shops these days, there’s no reason not to find a caring, patient, knowledgeable merchant. Even if you have a great merchant, every store is different, so give another store a try.
13) Try a Varietal You’ve Never Had From a U.S. Winery (4/27/09)
American wineries make all sorts of interesting wines that are hidden among the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Maybe you’ve never tried Norton, or a Melon made in the U.S. Now’s the time.
14) Either: Have 12 Different Bottles in the House at Once (4/27/09)
Even now, most Americans don’t have a single bottle of wine in the house. Buying a mixed case is cost-effective (because you will likely get a discount) and fun. And, if you are going to do this, think about getting one of those little wine coolers, which are widely available for $150 and less.
Or: Drink Up
If you already have a wine collection, mark those bottles that really need to be drunk and then actually drink them. OK, we know you won’t drink all of them, but if you drink just five of them this year, you can check this one off. (No, we’re not sure we can do this one, either, but we’ll give it a good try.)
15) Go Crazy on a Wine Pairing for Dinner Some Night (12/27/09)
Try a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with steak, a Ripasso from Italy with Southern fried chicken, a sparkling Shiraz with barbecue. Just smash outside that box and see what happens.
16) Try an Older White (12/27/09)
Many fine whites age beautifully, from white Burgundy to Riesling. Well-cared-for Muscadet can be beautiful for more than a decade. At a restaurant two weeks ago, we had a 1991 Gewürztraminer from Alsace (Domaine Zind Humbrecht “Clos Windsbuhl” Hunawihr) that was so effortlessly rich, well-balanced and satisfying that at one point we called it “the essence of wine.” If you have a merchant who offers well-tended older whites, or know of a restaurant that offers them, try one. If not, buy a good white and hide it somewhere for a while. (You can check this off if you’ve put a good white away somewhere and haven’t touched it by Dec. 31.)
17) Try a Type of Wine You Think You Don’t Like (2/14/09)
Are you sure you don’t like German wine? Have you tried today’s Rioja? If there’s any type of wine you haven’t tasted for at least two years, get a bottle. Things change, including your taste.
18) Get a New Corkscrew (1/20/09)
C’mon, we know that old corkscrew still kind of works and you’ve been through so much with it. We, too, hold on to corkscrews way too long. But give in and get a new one.
19) Serve a Dessert Wine to Guests (12/27/09)
Maybe your friends don’t think they like dessert wines and maybe you don’t, either. But try an Icewine from Canada or a Muscat from the U.S. or something else along those lines (serve with fruit, nuts or cookies) and watch the wine disappear.
20) Shatter Your Price Limit (2/26/09)
At least once this year, whether at a store or a restaurant, go above your usual limit for wine if there is a bottle that looks especially interesting to you. And the opposite applies as well: If you really believe there are no good wines under a certain price, try one.
Extra Credit
If you have never dropped us a note to say hello or ask a question, don’t be shy. Our email address is wine@wsj.com and while we can’t respond to all notes, we do our best.
Printed in The Wall Street Journal, page W4
Fettuccine with Butternut Squash and Radicchio
In case it hasn’t been clear from recent posts, I have a deep, deep fondness for pasta. I’m also slightly obsessed with butternut squash. So when Gourmet featured this recipe in their "Quick Kitchen" section of January's issue, I was intrigued. This dish is, essentially, fall in a bowl. I actually savored, slowly, each bite I took. It also didn't hurt that the orange and purple hues were lovely to look at on the plate.
It is surprisingly wonderful, and I say surprisingly because radicchio has a habit of being bitter and unfriendly, but its strong bite is softened by adding sweet butternut squash. As if that weren’t exquisite enough, texture and flavor are only enhanced by adding toasted, butter coated pine nuts. Oh, did I mention the butter is browned? Well, the butter is browned, making the nut flavor even more complex.
Fettuccine with Butternut Squash and Radicchio
Adapted from Gourmet
2 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. olive oil
1/3 cup pine nuts
1 lb. butternut squash, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes (about 2 ½ cups)
1 medium head of radicchio, cored and thinly sliced
1 lb. fettuccine or other long, flat pasta
Parmesan cheese, for garnish
1. Melt butter and oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat. Add pine nuts and cook, stirring, until nuts and butter have browned, 1-3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer nuts to a bowl and set aside.
2. Add squash to skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and just tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Add radicchio, pinches of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until wilted and just tender, about 3 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a pot of boiling, salted water until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and add to skillet. Toss pasta with vegetables, adding cooking liquid in ½ cup increments, stirring over low heat until eheated through.
4. Serve topped with pine nuts and cheese.
Spelt Everything Crackers
Ok, this is genius. Until reading this post, it really never occurred to me to make crackers. But since I love a good cheese platter, I didn’t think twice before marching over to Whole Foods for spelt flour and Humboldt Fog cheese. This was going to be good.
The time it takes to whisk, knead and roll takes about ten minutes, maybe less. After I placed them in the oven I said out loud “that was easy,” and happily began typing my thoughts for this post. But I was so excited I forgot to sprinkle the sea salt on top before placing them in the oven. I quickly pulled the rack out to correct my error. I also didn’t add dried rosemary to half the cracker sheet (my original plan), and had no sesame seeds in the pantry so sea salt had to do. And boy did it.
When I smeared some cheese greedily over one of these crackers, I vowed to never by store-bought crackers again. But let's be honest, I got caught up in the moment. However, it is wonderful to know that crackers are much, much easier to make then I ever imagined.
Spelt Everything Crackers
Via Smitten Kitchen: Adapted from the New York Times Magazine, 11/28/08 who adapted it from the Hungry Ghost in Northampton, Mass.
Makes 1 large cracker sheet
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups white spelt flour, plus more for flouring surface
Coarse sea salt, dried onion bits, poppy seeds and sesame seeds (for the everything bagel effect) or a seed combination of your choice
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Dissolve the salt in 1/2 cup of cold water. Stir in the spelt flour until combined. Knead the dough a few turns until a ball forms.
2. Flour an overturned 12-by-17-inch cookie sheet and roll out the dough on top of it, using as much flour as needed to prevent sticking, until the dough covers the sheet from edge to edge. Do your best to get them as thin as possible, because the thicker parts become quite hard when baked. Using a spray bottle filled with water, spray the dough to give it a glossy finish. Prick the dough all over with a fork. If you choose, sprinkle with sea salt or seeds. For neat crackers, score the dough into grids.
3. Bake until the dough is crisp and golden and snaps apart, 15 to 25 minutes. (Check after 10 minutes to make sure it does not overcook.) Break into pieces and serve.
Prosciutto-Wrapped Fish
Mike Bittman literally made this dish with one hand tied behind his back. I’m not kidding – watch the video. The producers held him to it after he claimed it was that easy. And it is. The fish also makes a nice presentation. (Note: If you're looking for an even easier meal, use store-bought presto instead of grinding your own.) Oh, it's also a one pan wonder. Just saute asparagus (or another vegetable) in the pan with the fish. Finish with a crisp glass of white wine and you're ready to enjoy a meal that appears to have taken much more of your energy than it really did. I won't tell.
Prosciutto-Wrapped Fish
Recipe courtesy Mark Bittman, NY Times
1/2 cup fresh parsley leaves
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup pine nuts
2 tablespoons olive oil, more or less
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 4- to 6-ounce thick fillets of halibut, cod or other white-fleshed fish
2 or 3 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto
2 tablespoons butter, or more oil.
1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. In a small food processor, combine herbs with pine nuts, enough olive oil to make a thick paste, and salt and pepper. (Alternatively, chop everything fine and combine in a bowl.)
2. Season fillets with salt and pepper. Lay two slices of prosciutto on a board, slightly overlapping like fish scales. Smear prosciutto with a layer of herb mixture, then lay fish in center and wrap it up.
3. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes; add butter. When foam subsides, cook fish for a minute on each side, then roast until tender, 5 to 10 minutes depending on thickness. Fillets are done when a thin-bladed knife will pass through their thickest point with little resistance. Serve.
Yield: 4 servings.
Braised Short Ribs with Celery Root and Potato Puree
Happy 2009!
These ribs really don't need an introduction, and yet I managed to turn out several paragraphs about how exceptional they are. And believe me, I tried to keep the photos to a minimum. I typically post between one and six photos, but this time, you simply must see the photos from start to finish. It’s a gratifying moment to pull off the lid during the last twenty minutes of cooking and see the burgundy, tender ribs about to fall off their bones. It’s even better to pull the meat gently with your fork and place a bite in your mouth. It was a celebratory moment, to eat something this delicious in our own dining room, and the perfect way to ring in the new year.
This New Year’s was a night to remember, and it wasn’t because we went out to some fancy party and went to sleep at three o’clock in the morning. In fact, it was exactly the opposite. I arrived home early from work and walked two blocks to Whole Foods to gather everything I needed for an amazing meal. We stayed in, cooked all afternoon, drank red wine, then champagne, then made Italian donuts and ate them as we watched the countdown from Time’s Square. It was just perfect.
These short ribs are exceptionally wonderful. Even the smell when they were browning (this, before adding the aromatics and red wine) was compelling. Then, after adding pureed onion, celery, garlic and carrot, red wine and watching it come together into a beautiful burgundy color, the scent perfumed our kitchen, living room, hallway…
The most intensive part of the cooking process is the beginning, when the ribs need to be browned, the aromatics must be browned, wine reduced, ribs added back to pot, covered in water and then…ahh. Three hours later, they’re done to perfection, covered in a red wine sauce smelling of thyme. And let’s not forget the celery root and potato puree, which is the perfect compliment to these tender, rich ribs. The puree is creamy, and the hint of celery at the back of your mouth wakes up the entire dish. I’m absolutely certain this will be our go-to New Year’s meal from now on. It’s just too good.
Braised Short Ribs
Recipe courtesy Anne Burrell
Ingredients
6 bone-in ribs (about 5 3/4 pounds) (I had the butcher cut them into thirds, for about 15 short ribs)
Kosher salt
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 large Spanish onion, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 ribs celery, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 carrots, peeled, cut in 1/2 lengthwise, then cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 1/2 cups tomato paste
2 to 3 cups hearty red wine
2 cups water
1 bunch fresh thyme, tied with kitchen string
2 bay leaves
Directions
Season each short rib generously with salt. Coat a pot large enough to accommodate all the meat and vegetables with olive oil and bring to a high heat. Add the short ribs to the pan and brown very well, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Do not overcrowd pan. Cook in batches, if necessary.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
While the short ribs are browning, puree all the vegetables and garlic in the food processor until it forms a coarse paste. When the short ribs are very brown on all sides, remove them from the pan. Drain the fat, coat the bottom of same pan with fresh oil and add the pureed vegetables. Season the vegetables generously with salt and brown until they are very dark and a crud has formed on the bottom of the pan, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Scrape the crud and let it reform. Scrape the crud again and add the tomato paste. Brown the tomato paste for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and scrape the bottom of the pan. Lower the heat if things start to burn. Reduce the mixture by half (about 5-10 minutes).
Return the short ribs to the pan and add 2 cups water or until the water has just about covered the meat. Add the thyme bundle and bay leaves. Cover the pan and place in the preheated oven for 3 hours. Check periodically during the cooking process and add more water, if needed. Turn the ribs over halfway through the cooking time. Remove the lid during the last 20 minutes of cooking to let things get nice and brown and to let the sauce reduce. When done the meat should be very tender but not falling apart. Serve with the braising liquid.
Celery Root and Potato Puree
3 large Idaho potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes, held in water until ready for use
Kosher salt
1 large celery root, tough outer parts removed, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 to 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 stick cold butter, cut into pats
Special Equipment: Food mill (You can mash them yourself, or puree in a stand mixer)
Directions
Place the potatoes in a pot large enough to accommodate the celery root and the potatoes. Make sure to add enough water to cover vegetables by 2 inches and season generously with salt. Bring the water to a boil. When the water has been boiling for about 10 minutes, add the celery root and cook until both vegetables are "fork tender". Strain the celery root and potatoes.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and bring it to a boil. Meanwhile, pass the celery root and potatoes through a food mill into a large bowl. Add about 1/4 of the hot cream and 2 pats of the butter. Stir vigorously until the cream and butter are thoroughly combined. Repeat this process until all of the cream and butter have been incorporated. Taste for seasoning, you will probably have to add salt. Serve in a warm serving bowl immediately or keep warm until ready to use.
*I used a tad less butter, and two large potatoes instead of three.
Cranberry Orange Scones
Before I studied abroad in college…many years ago…tea did not occupy much space in my mind. But after spreading my first London scone with rich, clotted cream and taking my tea with milk and sugar, I was smitten with this English tradition.
Tea arrived in Paris (mid-17th century) before it became popular in England, but according to legend, one of Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting is credited as the creator of afternoon teatime. Between the noon and evening meal, she was itching for something more. She first had her servants sneak tea to her, but then began inviting friends to join her for an afternoon spread of small cakes, sandwiches, and of course, tea. Since then, afternoon tea has been a popular pastime, and one that I have jokingly (and not so jokingly) suggested we implement at each of my three post-college jobs. But we American’s have this terrible habit of working more hours than we should and harboring stress, which complicates this mid-week, mid-afternoon period of ultimate relaxation and reflection.
Well, at least we have weekends. I love to prepare these scones on Sunday morning for a leisure breakfast, or tuck them into my purse for a work snack. It might not be office policy, but I can certainly warm my scone in the microwave and make a cup of tea to take back to my desk…and you can bet whenever I make these, I’ll be dreaming of England for a few minutes around three o’clock…
Cranberry Orange Scones
Recipe adapted from Ina Garten
Makes 14-16 scones
Ingredients
4 cups plus 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar, plus additional for sprinkling
2 tablespoons baking powder
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon grated orange zest
3/4 pound cold unsalted butter, diced (3 sticks)
4 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup cold heavy cream
1 cup dried cranberries
1 egg beaten with 2 tablespoons water or milk, for egg wash
Directions
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, mix 4 cups of flour, 1/4 cup sugar, the baking powder, salt and orange zest. Add the cold butter and mix at the lowest speed until the butter is the size of peas. Combine the eggs and heavy cream and, with the mixer on low speed, slowly pour into the flour and butter mixture. Mix until just blended. The dough will look lumpy! Combine the dried cranberries and 1/4 cup of flour, add to the dough, and mix on low speed until blended.
Dump the dough onto a well-floured surface and knead it into a ball. Flour your hands and a rolling pin and roll the dough 3/4-inch thick. You should see small bits of butter in the dough. Keep moving the dough on the floured board so it doesn't stick. Flour a 3-inch round plain or fluted cutter and cut circles of dough. Place the scones on a baking pan lined with parchment paper. Collect the scraps neatly, roll them out, and cut more circles.
Brush the tops of the scones with egg wash, sprinkle with sugar, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tops are browned and the insides are fully baked. The scones will be firm to the touch. Allow the scones to cool for 15 minutes, then serve with prepared honey butter.
Honey Butter
Recipe courtesy Anne Burrell
1/2 pint cold heavy cream
2 tablespoons honey
lemon zest
In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, add all ingredients and whip on high speed until the cream starts to clump and turn light yellow. Continue mixing as butter forms and the buttermilk begins to separate out. Scrape sides and continue mixing until mixture is one lump of butter. Place butter into a clean container or serving dish and store in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Campanelli with Sausage and Rapini
Why is it that many grocery stores (at least those within a five mile radius of my house) do not stock orecchiette? Or, when it is stocked, I’m not planning a meal around it, so I don’t bother to pick it up. Inevitably, when I do need it, orecchiette is nowhere to be found. Even Gelson’s, which I thought would certainly carry the cute, “little ears,” left me wandering the aisles in disbelief. These stores seem to carry just about every other variety from Ruote to Gemelli (and by every other variety I mean beyond penne and spaghetti). So, I reached for a box of something I thought would work well with the sausage and rapini (broccoli rabe) it would mingle with on our plates: campanelli.
In the box, their ends look unfurled the way the petal of a tulip does, its ridges fanning around like a cape. And when they are swimming the salted water, just al dente, they are fully prepared to catch all the juices and flavors this dish provides. Like many pasta recipes, the noodle variety will not significantly affect the final outcome of the dish. I knew all would be well, but was attached to the orecchiette simply because it was a recipe from Mario Batali’s Los Angeles Restaurant, Osteria Mozza, and I wanted to try it his way the first time. But, all disappointment aside, this was delicious. Because of the textural variety, this would be a great dinner party dish – it’s crunchy, sweet, spicy, and a little unexpected.
Campanelli with Sausage and Rapini
Adapted from Chef Nancy Silverton, Osteria Mozza
1 box campanelli (or other round pasta, like orecchiette)
1 bunch (1 ¼ lb.) broccoli rabe (rapini), trimmed and chopped
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ lb. (about 3 links) hot Italian sausage, casings removed
1 ½ cup store bought or homemade marinara sauce
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish
½ cup toasted Panko breadcrumbs (optional), for garnish
In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook pasta 9-10 minutes, until al dente. Add broccoli rabe during last three minutes of cooking; drain.
Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; cook 2 to 3 minutes or until onion starts to soften. Add sausage, breaking it up with a wooden spoon; cook until browned, about 3 minutes. Add cooked pasta and broccoli rabe to skillet, tossing until combined. Stir in marinara sauce; cook 1 minute or until heated through.
Sprinkle with cheeses and panko breadcrumbs before serving.
Red Velvet Cupcakes
December has certainly been a month of sweets. I’m convinced it was because I had some time off (translation: more time to bake). That, combined with the recent discovery that my oven is actually half-way decent and won’t burn every cookie I attempt, adds up to a lot of desserts.
I’m sure many of you are aware that California’s cupcake craze has made consumers swoon in the last couple of years. Cupcakes popped up like pansies in bakeries across the state, making it easier than ever to try, and inevitably fall in love with, red velvet cake. I quickly googled recipes to store for the day that I would attempt them myself, and that occasion came last month for my husband’s birthday. I used Pinch My Salt’s post as a guide, and would have made the cake version, but wanted to (easily) transport the extras to his parent’s house for Thanksgiving. An already sliced cake just wouldn’t have made the prettiest presentation.
And let’s face it – Christmas is in two days, and red velvet cakes are adorably festive. All they’re missing are some green sprinkles.
Red Velvet Cake (a.k.a. Waldorf Astoria Cake)
Courtesy Pinch My Salt
2 1/2 cups sifted cake flour*
1 t. baking powder
1 t. salt
2 T. cocoa powder
2 oz. red food coloring
1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 eggs, at room temperature
1 t. vanilla
1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
1 t. white vinegar
1 t. baking soda
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour two 9-inch round cake pans or three 8-inch round cake pans.
2. Into a medium bowl, sift together cake flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside.
3. In a small bowl, mix food coloring and cocoa powder to form a paste; set aside.
4. In a large bowl, using a hand mixer or stand mixer, beat butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, about three minutes.
5. Making sure to scrape down the bowl occasionally, beat in eggs, one at a time, then beat in vanilla and cocoa paste.
6. Add one third of the flour mixture, beat well, then beat in half of the buttermilk. Beat in another third of flour mixture, then second half of buttermilk. Finally beat in the last third of the flour mixture, making sure to scrape down the bowl with a spatula.
7. Make sure you have cake pans buttered, floured, and nearby. In a small bowl, mix vinegar and baking soda. Yes, it will fizz! Add it to the cake batter and stir well to combine. Working quickly, divide batter evenly between the cake pans and place them in a preheated 350 degree oven.
7. Bake for 25-30 minutes. (For cupcakes, bake 18 min.) Check early, cake is done when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
8. Cool the cakes in their pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. To remove the cakes from the pan, place a wire rack on top of the cake pan and invert, then gently lift the pan. Allow cakes to cool completely before frosting.
9. Frost with cream cheese frosting (link below).
*If you can’t find cake flour, Nicole mentioned that the original recipe called for all-purpose flour and recommended using ¼ cup less, so 2 ¼ c. all-purpose flour instead of 2 ½ C. cake flour. I went this route and the results were great.
Cream Cheese Frosting Recipe
Peanut Butter Cookies
When you first bite into this cookie fresh from the oven (a chef must taste her creations after all), you will quickly, unavoidably, become addicted to these soft, sugar-coated morsels and find reason after reason to make them (a co-workers birthday, a Friday night treat for surviving the work week, your oven has been feeling neglected lately and you don’t want to disappoint it, etc.). Oh, the list goes on.
Of course, for the die-hard peanut butter experience, you can certainly omit the chocolate chips, but even my husband, the die-hard peanut butter fanatic, admitted the chocolate chunks added a little…something. Now, go pour yourself a tall glass of cold milk and make these cookies.
Peanut Butter Cookies
Adapted from the Magnolia Bakery Cookbook via Smitten Kitchen
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup peanut butter at room temperature
3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (for sprinkling) sugar
1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 tablespoon milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup peanut butter chips
1/2 cup chocolate chips
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
In a large bowl, combine the flour, the baking soda, the baking powder, and the salt. Set aside.
In a large bowl, beat the butter and the peanut butter together until fluffy. Add the sugars and beat until smooth. Add the egg and mix well. Add the milk and the vanilla extract. Add the flour mixture and beat thoroughly. Stir in the peanut butter chips. Place sprinkling sugar on a plate. Drop by rounded teaspoonfuls into the sugar, then onto ungreased cookie sheets, leaving several inches between for expansion. Using a fork, lightly indent with a crissscross pattern (I used the back of a palette knife to keep it smooth on top), but do not overly flatten cookies. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Do not overbake. Cookies may appear to be underdone, but they are not.
Cool the cookies on the sheets for 1 minute, then remove to a rack to cool completely.
Leek and Cauliflower Soup
I’m sure I’ve mentioned how much I love soup this time of year. And that I love cauliflower. So, really, you should have been expecting this post.
Soup and good crusty bread can be the perfect meal, but special textural additions like croutons, herbs, or in this case, grilled cauliflower, will always elevate an already wonderful soup. Grilling or roasting cauliflower releases its nutty flavor, providing a soft crunch with every bite.
Leek and Cauliflower Soup
Recipe adapted from Caviar & Codfish
Serves 6
Ingredients:
2 medium leeks, sliced into rounds and washed
1 medium sweet onion
olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 large head cauliflower, cored and cut into florets
4-6 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock)
salt and pepper
1 T butter
¼ cup heavy cream
In a large saucepan, saute onion, garlic and leeks with a bit of olive oil, until they soften but do not brown. Add cauliflower and enough stock to cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium. Cook until cauliflower is tender, about 15 minutes. Before pureeing, take out a few florets of cauliflower, set aside.
Puree the soup in batches in the blender. then add soup back to saucepan and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in cream. Keep warm over a low heat.
Slice your reserved cauliflower florets thinly, so you get cute little shapes that look like trees. Add butter to a small frying pan. When melted, add cauliflower slices and brown in the butter on both sides, taking care not to burn. Remove from pan to a small plate. Do the same with the leek rounds.
Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with the cauliflower trees and leek rounds.
Ciabatta Stuffing with Chestnuts and Pancetta
For the past couple of years I’ve tested new stuffing recipes as part of my pre-holiday meals. Now, I happen to be a big Stove-Top fan. It fluffs magically in five minutes flat, and reminds me of my childhood so I can’t give it up completely. But each fall, I do enjoy making stuffing from scratch as well. Right now I’m torn between two favorites: this, and Bon Appetit’s new squash version.
This ciabatta version was my first attempt at stuffing, so I might be partial to it for that reason, but then there are the herbs, and crispy Pancetta, and chestnuts, oh, and the Parmesan cheese…It’s completely different from say, cream butternut squash cubes melting in your mouth. That’s it, they’re just too different to compare. I can’t choose a winner. But I suppose that’s the beauty of the eight weeks of November and December – there is plenty of time to try more than one recipe, so you’re bound to stumble on one that you can’t live without. (Oh, and no one will tell if you boil a batch of Stove-Top and hover over the stove to eat it by the forkful.)
Ciabatta Stuffing with Chestnuts and Pancetta
Recipe courtesy Giada de Laurentiis
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
8 ounces pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 large onions, finely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped
3 celery stalks, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 (7.4-ounce) jars roasted peeled whole chestnuts, coarsely broken
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
1 pound day-old ciabatta bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1 cup (or more) canned low-salt chicken broth
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs, beaten to blend
*Note: One year I didn’t have chestnuts and tossed in cashews instead. They provided a lovely crunch, so I sometimes add them to contrast the creaminess of the chestnuts.
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Butter a 15 by 10 by 2-inch glass baking dish. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and saute until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a large bowl.
Melt the remaining butter in the same skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, carrots, celery, rosemary, and garlic. Saute until the onions are very tender, about 12 minutes. Gently stir in the chestnuts and parsley. Transfer the onion mixture to the large bowl with the pancetta. Add the bread and Parmesan and toss to coat. Add enough broth to the stuffing mixture to moisten. Season the stuffing, to taste, with salt and pepper. Mix in the eggs.
Transfer the stuffing to the prepared dish. Cover with buttered foil, buttered side down, and bake until the stuffing is heated through, about 30 minutes. Uncover and continue baking until the top is crisp and golden, about 15 minutes longer.
Cauliflower Ravioli with Pancetta
Once I discovered how delicious cauliflower can be, I entered an obsessive phase. Since September my mouth has been watering over this recipe featured in Bon Appetit, and I finally got around to making it. This is a great special occasion dish, and I made it after my husband and I finished decorating our apartment for Christmas. If Guanciale – cured pork jowl and cheek – isn’t available at your market, just use pancetta. On second thought, even if it is available, you still might want to use pancetta. In case you’d like to make your own pasta, I’ve included the original recipe (also online here), but you can also take my shortcut and use wonton wrappers instead.
For wonton wrappers, brush the edges with water and spoon a tablespoon amount of filling in the center. Place a second brushed wrapper on top of the filling and press the edges together to ensure the air has been released and they stick together. If making ahead, place the ravioli on a foil lined baking sheet and freeze. Place frozen ravioli in a plastic bag until ready for use.
Cauliflower Ravioli with Guanciale
Recipe by Acero ~ Bon Appetit
September 2008
Ingredients
pasta
1 1/2 cups semolina flour (pasta flour)*
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
All purpose flour
filling
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 cups 1-inch cauliflower florets
1/2 cup water
6 tablespoons ricotta cheese
6 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese plus more for serving
1/3 cup mascarpone cheese**
sauce
8 oz thinly sliced guanciale or pancetta (Italian bacon), cut crosswise into thin strips
3 cups low-salt chicken broth
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
Preparation
pasta
Mix semolina flour and salt in large bowl. Whisk eggs and yolks in small bowl. Gradually stir egg mixture into flour. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface. Knead until smooth and elastic (dough will be sticky). Wrap in plastic wrap; chill 1 day.
filling
Melt butter with oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add cauliflower; sprinkle with salt and pepper and sauté until golden, about 7 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water. Cover and simmer until cauliflower is tender, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook until dry, about 3 minutes. Cool completely.
Blend ricotta, 6 tablespoons Parmesan, and mascarpone in processor until smooth. Add cauliflower and blend until filling is smooth. Season with salt and pepper. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 day ahead. Transfer to bowl, cover, and chill.
sauce
Sauté guanciale in large deep skillet over medium-high heat until golden and crisp. Add broth and butter. Boil until sauce thickens and is reduced to 1 1/2 cups, about 12 minutes. Chill up to 4 hours.
Line large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper; dust with all purpose flour. Divide dough into 3 pieces; cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying. Set pasta machine to widest setting. Flatten 1 dough piece into rectangle; run though machine. Fold in half, end to end, and run through machine again. Continue, adjusting to next-narrower setting after every 4 or 5 passes and dusting with flour as needed to keep from sticking, until sheet is about 24 inches long and about 1/16 inch thick. Cut sheet in half crosswise.
Drop filling onto 1 dough strip by heaping teaspoonfuls, spacing 1 1/2 inches apart. Brush dough with water around each mound. Top with second dough strip; press around each mound to seal. Cut each ravioli into 2-inch square. Arrange on prepared sheet; cover with kitchen towel. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. DO AHEAD Can be made 3 hours ahead; chill.
Cook ravioli in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, stirring occasionally. Drain well. Rewarm sauce. Add ravioli and toss over medium-high heat until sauce coats ravioli, about 2 minutes. Transfer to shallow bowl. Serve, passing grated Parmesan.
*Available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores and Italian markets.
**An Italian cream cheese; sold at many supermarkets and at Italian markets.
Vanilla Crescents
While browsing through Food & Wine’s December issue, I read Cindy Mushet’s recipe for Vanilla Crescents and thought, Can they really be this easy? I headed to the kitchen to find out. You don’t need to plan on making these cookies – just make them. It’s likely that you already have all the ingredients anyway, and it won’t take more than an hour out of your day.
For a more polished look, I gave them a final dusting of powdered sugar through a sifter. I also made them slightly larger than suggested because I was afraid they would be too small (Do you see a pattern here?). However, they do plump up a bit in the oven, so if you stick to the recipe you’ll get the 3-dozen crescents it mentions.
Vanilla Crescents
Recipe courtesy Cindy Mushet
Ingredients
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar, plus more for dusting
1 1/2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt
Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350° and position one rack in the upper third and one in the lower third. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. In the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the butter with 1/2 cup of the confectioners’ sugar until pale white, about 5 minutes. Beat in the vanilla. Add the flour and salt and beat at low speed just until combined.
3. On a lightly floured surface, roll level tablespoons of the dough into 3-inch ropes. Taper the ends slightly and form the ropes into crescents. Carefully transfer the crescents to the baking sheets, about 1/2 inch apart.
4. Bake the crescents for 22 to 24 minutes, until the bottoms are golden and the tops are pale blond; shift the baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through for even baking. Transfer the baking sheets to racks and let the cookies cool for 10 minutes.
5. Fill a small bowl with confectioners’ sugar. While the cookies are still warm, coat them in the sugar and transfer to a clean sheet of parchment paper to cool slightly. Roll the cooled cookies in the sugar again and let cool completely.
Cheesy Baked Penne with Cauliflower and Crème Fraîche
This is a truly decadent, grown-up version of your favorite Mac & Cheese. I made this for my husband and a friend who likely would have enjoyed the disgusting lovely blue box version with chopped hot dogs, but three cheeses + cauliflower + a grainy mustard tang + bread crumbs = one amazing dinner.
When I say decadent, I mean it. This dish is not figure friendly. Or wallet friendly. The several cheeses and crème fraîche can add up, but it’s worth it once in a while when you want to splurge and really punch up a classic favorite.
Now, I won't go so far as to say this is the best Mac & Cheese...yet. I think some more research is in order. I've made other versions in the past and have some I'd like to revisit before making a final decision on my ultimate, go-to Mac & Cheese favorite. Stay tuned...
Cheesy Baked Penne with Cauliflower and Crème Fraîche
Recipe by Bruce Aidells, Bon Appetit
Ingredients
1 1 1/2- to 1 3/4-pound head of cauliflower, cored, cut into 1-inch florets
2 large heirloom tomatoes
5 tablespoons butter, divided
1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions
Coarse kosher salt
2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 cup heavy whipping cream
3 cups coarsely grated Comté cheese (or half Gruyère and half Fontina; about 9 ounces), divided
3/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, divided
1 cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon whole grain Dijon mustard
10 oz penne (3 1/2 cups)
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs (from crustless French bread ground in processor)
Preparation
Cook cauliflower in large pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Using large sieve, transfer cauliflower to bowl. Add tomatoes to pot; cook 1 minute. Remove from water; peel and dice tomatoes. Reserve pot of water.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add cauliflower; sauté until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and green onions. Cook 1 minute to blend flavors. Remove from heat. Season with coarse salt and pepper.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add flour and stir 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in cream. Cook until sauce thickens, whisking occasionally, about 4 minutes. Add 2 cups Comté cheese; whisk until melted and sauce is smooth. Whisk in 1/2 cup Parmesan, then crème fraîche* and mustard. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.
Return reserved pot of water to boil. Add pasta and cook until tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain; return pasta to same pot. Stir in cauliflower mixture and sauce.
Butter 13 x 9 x 2-inch glass baking dish. Spoon in half of pasta mixture; sprinkle with 1/2 cup Comté cheese. Top with remaining pasta mixture and 1/2 cup Comté cheese. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in small skillet. Add breadcrumbs and toss to coat. Remove from heat; mix in 1/4 cup Parmesan. Sprinkle crumbs over pasta. DO AHEAD Can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake pasta uncovered until heated through and bubbling, about 35 minutes.
Peppermint Hot Chocolate
I made this as an afterthought to a recent holiday dinner, but it’s really quite a star. My husband and I took sips at the same time and immediately locked eyes, then excited "mmm's" followed in unison. It was absolutely perfect. So perfect, in fact, that I'll be making it all month long. (But I'll be honest - this is a rich after-dinner treat. For a lighter touch, use skim milk instead of whole.) Don't, however, skimp and use Cool Whip. Get real, heavy whipping cream, and you'll thank me after you take a sip.
Peppermint Hot Chocolate
Bon Appetit ~ December 2008
Ingredients
1 cup chilled heavy whipping cream, divided
1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 cups whole milk
4 oz bittersweet (preferably 60% cocoa) chocolate, coarsely chopped
1/4 teaspoon peppermint extract
4 small candy canes (for garnish)
Preparation
Beat 1/2 cup cream and 1 teaspoon sugar in bowl until soft peaks form. Cover; chill.
Whisk 1/2 cup cream, 2 tablespoons sugar, and milk in medium saucepan over medium-high heat; bring to boil. Remove from heat. Add chocolate; whisk until smooth. Whisk in extract. Divide chocolate among mugs. Top with cream and garnish with candy canes.