Blood Orange Olive Oil Cake

Blood oranges are at the farmer’s market nowadays, and I always walk by the sample table, pick up a blood orange chunk with a toothpick, then walk away with a smile on my face. They just taste so…good. Plus their deep red, almost purple color is just beautiful.

Today, I bought a few and pulled out a recipe I had been saving. The first night we ate these as dessert, but I wrapped up individual slices for grab-and-go breakfasts the rest of the week.

Blood Orange Olive Oil Cake
Recipe by Melissa Clark, New York Times

Butter for greasing pan
3 blood oranges
1 cup sugar
Buttermilk or plain yogurt
3 large eggs
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Honey-blood orange compote, for serving, optional (see note)
Whipped cream, for serving, optional.

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Grate zest from 2 oranges and place in a bowl with sugar. Using your fingers, rub ingredients together until orange zest is evenly distributed in sugar.

2. Supreme an orange: Cut off bottom and top so fruit is exposed and orange can stand upright on a cutting board. Cut away peel and pith, following curve of fruit with your knife. Cut orange segments out of their connective membranes and let them fall into a bowl. Repeat with another orange. Break up segments with your fingers to about 1/4-inch pieces.

3. Halve remaining orange and squeeze juice into a measuring cup. You will have about 1/4 cup or so. Add buttermilk or yogurt to juice until you have 2/3 cup liquid altogether. Pour mixture into bowl with sugar and whisk well. Whisk in eggs.

4. In another bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Gently whisk dry ingredients into wet ones. Switch to a spatula and fold in oil a little at a time. Fold in pieces of orange segments. Scrape batter into pan and smooth top.

5. Bake cake for about 55 minutes, or until it is golden and a knife inserted into center comes out clean. Cool on a rack for 5 minutes, then unmold and cool to room temperature right-side up. Serve with whipped cream and honey-blood orange compote, if desired.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings.
Note: To make a honey-blood orange compote, supreme 3 more blood oranges according to directions in Step 2. Drizzle in 1 to 2 teaspoons honey. Let sit for 5 minutes, then stir gently.

Wine Resolutions #13 and #14

During the three days we spent in Santa Barbara last week, I managed to cross off two more wine resolutions. On Friday morning we stopped by C’est Cheese for a few picnic provisions, including a slice of an unbelievable goat cheese laced with truffles called “Truffle Tremor.” Mmm.

Thirty minutes later we had made our way up the coast to Melville, our first stop of four. Next came Alma Rosa, Rusack, and Sunstone. Wine country was beautiful, as always and we walked away with a box full of wine. One smelled like white nectarine, another like pumpkin, and some peppery reds perfect for the outdoor grilling that should be happening this summer.

#13: Try a Varietal You’ve Never Had From a U.S. Winery. At Rusack we tasted a 2006 Sangiovese, the grape of the Chianti region of Italy. I’ve tasted Chianti before, but I’m not sure it counts when you’re fourteen at a family Christmas party taking a small sip from your parent’s glass.

#14: Either: Have 12 Different Bottles in the House at Once or Drink Up. We came home with ten new bottles. Our wine rack only holds nine, so I’m considering this resolution successful. For the past few months, our wine rack had looked, well, sad (note the before and after shots below). Between the move, the recession, and getting settled with new jobs, buying wine just wasn’t high on the priority list. But now that life is back on track, it was definitely time to restock our very modest cellar.

Penne with Roasted Asparagus and Balsamic Butter

I could go on and on about how much I love pasta. And since I’m half Italian, its technically in my blood.  (I mean, it would really be like slapping my ancestors in the face if I didn’t love it, right?)

Pasta appeals to the other half of me for its versatility. Not only do the noodles vary in size, shape and texture, but pasta can be paired with endless combinations of vegetables, herbs, and sauces. And since this balsamic syrup thing is going strong, this recipe peaked my interest as soon as I read the title.

It’s so simple to make, you really don’t have an excuse to open that can of marinara sauce in the fridge. You could certainly forgo the balsamic butter altogether and just toss the pasta with vegetables and olive oil, but this little bit of decadence will really wake up Wednesday night dinner.

*Today is my 3-year wedding anniversary! And we're getting out of town...look for more posts next week.

Penne with Roasted Asparagus and Balsamic Butter

Recipe adapted from Food & Wine

Ingredients

1 pound asparagus
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon brown sugar
1 pound penne
3 tbsp. butter, cut into pieces
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

Directions

1.  Heat the oven to 400°. Snap the tough ends off the asparagus and discard them. Cut the spears into 1-inch pieces. Put the asparagus on a baking sheet and toss with the oil and 1/4 teaspoon each of the salt and pepper. Roast until tender, about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, put the vinegar in a small saucepan. Simmer until 3 tablespoons remain. Stir in the brown sugar and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Remove from the heat. Stir in butter until melted and mixture is smooth.

3. Cook the penne in a large pot of boiling, salted water until just done, about 10 minutes. Drain the pasta and toss with the balsamic sauce, vinegar, asparagus, Parmesan, and the remaining 1 3/4 teaspoons salt. Serve with additional Parmesan.

Gnocchi with Thyme Butter

Gnocchi has been one of those things on my list I’ve always wanted to make. The only thing standing in my way was the fact that I didn’t have a potato ricer, nor did I want to buy one just to make gnocchi. But wait, you don't actually need a potato ricer to make gnocchi? That was all I needed to know. And does anyone have a problem with some brown butter? I didn't think so.

Now, let's be honest. If I had served this to someone’s Italian grandmother, they might not be impressed.  I can see where the ricer might be useful, especially to ensure a smooth consistency, but slather them in brown butter (just be sure to add some salt – it was the only thing that seemed to be lacking.) or fresh basil pesto, and you're set. Besides, for my first attempt at gnocchi, it was pretty successful and can only get better from here.

Gnocchi with a grater

Recipe courtesy Smitten Kitchen

Adapted from About.com

2 pounds Russet potatoes

1 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 large egg, lightly beaten

Directions

Preheat your oven to 400°. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, and bake them on a baking sheet for 45 minutes to one hour, or until they are fork-tender. For best results, turn the potatoes over halfway through the baking time. Let the potatoes cool slightly.

Peel the potatoes, and then pass them through a potato ricer, food mill or grate them over the large holes of a box grater into a large bowl. Add the lightly beaten egg and the salt to the potatoes and mix well with a wooden spoon.

Add the flour to the potatoes a little at a time, using only as much as you need so that the dough will not stick to your hands. When the flour has been incorporated, bring the dough together with your fingertips.

Dump the dough and any remaining floury bits onto a slightly floured surface. Knead the dough as you would bread dough. Press down and away with the heel of your hand, fold the dough over, make a quarter turn, and repeat the process. Knead for about three or four minutes.

Form the dough into a ball and then divide it into 6 smaller balls. On a lightly floured surface, roll out one of the six pieces using your fingertips into a long rope about 3/4 inch thick. Cut the dough into 1 inch pieces.

You can cook the gnocchi as it is now, but traditional gnocchi has ridges. To create the ridges, press each piece of dough against the tines of a fork. With your finger, gently roll the pressed dough back off the fork. This takes a little practice. If you find the dough sticking to the fork, dip the fork in flour before you press the dough against it.

Place the gnocchi in a single layer on a lightly floured or parchment-lined dish. If you’d like to freeze them for later use, do so on this tray and once they are frozen, drop them into a freezer bag. This ensures that you won’t have one enormous gnocchi mass when you are ready to cook them.

To cook the gnocchi, place them into a pot of boiling and well-salted water. After a few minutes the gnocchi will float to the top. Continue to cook for one minute then remove and set aside.

Smoky Beef Tacos

You don’t really need a recipe for tacos. Although I planned my dinner around the recipe in the March edition of Everyday Food, when it came time to braise the beef, I winged it. I didn’t measure the oregano or ketchup, and now that I’m actually looking at the recipe, I completely forgot to add garlic. Oh well. The meat was tender and flavorful, which is really all that matters.

My process went a little like this: Heat up some oil, brown the beef on both sides, add listed ingredients plus a few glugs of chicken stock (to come up about ½ way to the top of the beef), let it come to a boil, cover, stick in the oven for two hours until meat is tender, break apart with a fork, put meat back in cooking liquid to keep moist and warm, enjoy! I also served the tacos with a simple salad of corn and tomatoes, avocado, and lime-flavored sour cream.

Smoky Beef Tacos

Recipe courtesy Everyday Food

Ingredients

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped canned chipotle chiles in adobo
1/2 cup ketchup
8 garlic cloves, chopped
2 teaspoons dried oregano
Coarse salt and ground pepper
1 boneless beef chuck roast (about 3 pounds), excess fat trimmed
16 corn tortillas (6-inch), lightly toasted
Avocado-Red Onion Relish
Corn-and-Tomato Salsa
Cilantro-Lime Crema

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid, stir together chiles, ketchup, 1 cup water, garlic, oregano, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

2. Cut beef into 4 equal pieces. Add to pot, and turn to coat. Cover, and bring to a boil; transfer pot to oven. Bake, covered, until beef is fork-tender, about 2 1/2 hours.

3. Transfer beef to a bowl. With a large spoon, skim off and discard fat from cooking liquid. Shred beef with two forks; moisten with cooking liquid as needed. Season with salt and pepper. Serve beef with tortillas and desired toppings.

Anniversary Cake Part 3: The Big Reveal + Recipes

Oh, have you been looking for the recipes I promised back in Part 1? Well, here they are! This cake, for a surprise party with fifteen guests, was absolutely delicious and a complete thrill to pull off. I actually surprised myself so much I considered becoming a professional baker during a two-minute moment of weakness when all the guests were fawning over how professional it looked. But now that all the gushing is out of the way, it’s back to reality. Leaving my job to open a cute little bakery certainly won't be happening, but there will always be room among all of life's responsibilities to create special treats for birthdays, anniversaries, or just because.

The main difference I noticed with this cake versus the test cake was that most of the lemon curd had soaked into the layers by the time we cut it. This didn't impact the flavor, you just couldn't see it, so it looked like raspberries completely dominated the filling. (Something I noticed, but no one else cared about.) Fondant also takes a little finesse to cut through. The first slice (above), was a bit mangled when it hit the plate, but again, a minor detail. Tip: Dip your knife into hot water before each slice to ensure a more even cut.

So, here are the recipes:

Vanilla Buttermilk Cake with Lemon Curd and Fresh Raspberries, Iced with Swiss Buttercream

{printable recipe}

Ingredients

Cake

Recipe via Smitten Kitchen, via Sky High: Irresistible Triple-Layer Cakes
Makes one three-layer 9-inch round cake

*I made a three-layer 8-inch cake

3 3/4 cups cake flour
2 1/2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon plus 2 3/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 sticks (10 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 1/4 cups plus 1/3 cup buttermilk
5 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
2 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Buttercream

Recipe via Smitten Kitchen

For a 9-inch cake (plus filling, or some to spare)
1 cup sugar
4 large egg whites
26 tablespoons butter, softened (3 sticks plus 2 tablespoons or 1 1/2 cups + 2 tablespoons, if you buy butter in the large Costco quantities)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Lemon Curd

From: Sky High: Irresistible Triple Layer Cakes

3 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
½ cup sugar
½ cup + 1 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 4 lemons)
Grated zest of 3 lemons
4 tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature

Raspberries

1 to 2 cups frozen raspberries, thawed and drained

Directions

Cake

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter three 9-inch round cake pans. Line the bottom of each pan with a round of parchment or waxed paper and butter the paper.
2. Combine the cake flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large mixer bowl. With the mixer on low speed, blend for 30 seconds. Add the butter and 1 1/4 cup of the buttermilk. Mix on low speed briefly to blend; then raise the speed to medium and beat until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes.
3. In a smaller bowl, whisk together the whole eggs, egg yolks, vanilla, and the remaining 1/3 cup buttermilk until well blended. Pour one-third of the egg mixture into the cake batter at a time, folding it in completely after each addition. There will be 9 cups of batter; our 3 cups batter into each pan.
4. Bake for 26 to 28 minutes, or until a cake tester or wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. (Note: In my oven, the cakes took 30-33 minutes, so be sure to check them)
5. Turn the layers out onto wire racks by placing a rack on top of a pan, inverting it, and lifting off the pan. Peel off the paper liners and let cool completely. When the layers have cooled, place a cardboard cake board on top of a layer, invert again, and lift off the rack. To make the layers easier to handle, wrap them on their boards completely in plastic, so they don’t dry out, and refrigerate them.

Buttercream

1. Whisk egg whites and sugar together in a big metal bowl over a pot of simmering water. Whisk occasionally until you can’t feel the sugar granules when you rub the mixture between your fingers.
2. Transfer mixture into the mixer and whip until it turns white and about doubles in size. (Here’s a tip: when you transfer to the mixer, make sure you wipe the condensation off the bottom of the bowl so that no water gets into the egg whites. This can keep them from whipping up properly.)
3.  Add the vanilla.
4.  Finally, add the butter a stick at a time and whip, whip, whip. (This can take 10-15 minutes.)

Lemon Curd

1. Whisk together whole eggs, yolks, sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest in a medium bowl.
2. Transfer mixture to a small saucepan. Gently heat the mixture, whisking until it thickens enough to coat a spoon; do not boil.
3. Pour the mixture through a wire mesh strainer into a heatproof dish. Stir in the butter and cover the curd with plastic wrap, pressing it to the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until needed.

Assembly

Since I made the cake a day ahead, I flash-froze the layers (see notes on Part 2), then brushed on a simple syrup before adding the filling to ensure the cake would still be moist the next day. To assemble, place one cake layer on a cake board or stand. (Don't forget the parchment paper!) For my test cake, I didn’t use a buttercream buffer. In fact, I hadn’t even read about this tip yet. But when it came to the big event, I piped a small layer of buttercream along the edge of the cake layer to keep curd from spilling out of the sides. Pour 1/2 of the lemon curd onto the first layer and gently spread it out. Squeeze extra juice from berries and dot them on the lemon curd. Place second layer on top, gently pressing down, and repeat until the third layer is placed. Next, apply a crumb layer and let the cake chill for another 30 minutes in the fridge.  Finally, frost, decorate, and enjoy!

Anniversary Cake Part 2: Frosting, Freezers and Fondant

Now that you know the story, here is a collection of tips I learned from attempting this project, as well as a big THANK YOU to all the resources I used to pull this off.

Use the freezer. Most blogs and cake sites I read recommended freezing the layers (for up to a week, wrapped in plastic), but a minimum of 30 minutes to an hour. The latter is the “flash freezing” technique, which I found to be the best trick for making frosting a breeze.  Allow your cakes to cool, then place them on a parchment lined baking sheet and slide it in the freezer. When you pull them out to begin frosting, you’ll notice a big difference.

Swiss Buttercream. It’s true about the Swiss Buttercream—it will come together (yes, even if it separates). Just turn on your mixer and leave it alone. Leave the kitchen all together and when you return, it will have survived the curdled soup phase and look beautifully creamy. I panicked the first time (and even the second time) when I saw it lumpy in the bowl of my mixer, but magically, it will reach the consistency you need.

The all-important crumb coat. This is a thin coat of frosting that will cover any crumbs and ensure a smooth surface for adding the top layer of frosting. Put your cake back in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to let crumb coat chill and harden before spreading on the final layer of frosting. It's truly the key to making your cake look like it came from a professional bakery.

Fondant. Fondant can be made at home, but I wasn’t about to add another thing to my to-do list this late in the game. With no shame, I bought boxes of the stuff at Gloria’s Cake Supply (fondant can also be found online). To roll fondant, first measure the amount you will need. Add the width of the cake plus the height of the two sides (in my case, 8+4+4 = 16. Wilton’s recommends adding another 2 inches, so my total was 18 inches).

Since my counter tops are tiled and not perfectly smooth, I cleared off my kitchen table, dusted it with powdered sugar, and spent the next ten minutes getting an upper body workout. Continue to roll and measure until the fondant is about ¼ inches thick and the width you need. Use your rolling pin to pick it up and gently drape it over the cake. Start by smoothing the top of the cake, then work your way down the sides, gently removing air bubbles as you go.

Ideally, fondant should be placed on a chilled frosting layer (I accidentally bypassed this step, considering later that it might have been useful. Thankfully, nothing was ruined). After the crumb coat, frost your cake, and if you’re planning to use fondant, stick it in the fridge again for 30 minutes before applying the fondant.

RESOURCES

A brief plug for You Tube. Watching videos of cake decorating/frosting was especially useful for a first time wedding cake baker. Learn how to swivel your icing spatula or flatten fondant, and you’ll have an edge when you attempt these techniques yourself.

Smitten Kitchen. Deb made a wedding cake last year and her detailed posts gave me confidence to attempt one of my own. The Swiss buttercream and vanilla buttermilk cake recipes are adapted from her site.

Baking Supplies. If you live in a major city, there is likely a restaurant or baking supply store in your area (so Google!). LA folks: Head to Gloria’s Cake & Candy Supply in Culver City for all your baking essentials. For online shopping, Wilton’s, Gloria’s, and Amazon all have a large selection of products.

Here are a few more tools that will make this whole process easier:

Cake boards. Cake boards come in a range of materials from basic cardboard to gold and silver-coated boards that will give your cake a professional look and feel. Boards are generally inexpensive (under $1 for the cardboard variety, and depending on the decorative version you choose, anywhere from $2 to $10).

Cake boxes. Essential if you’re transporting your cake anywhere. If you aren’t making a tiered cake to be assembled on site, you can make the cake, frost and decorate, and slide it (on your trusty cake board) into the cake box.

Icing spatulas. A regular butter knife just won’t cut it for frosting cakes. Again, relatively inexpensive ($8-$30 depending on brand), it’s worthwhile to invest in icing spatulas if cakes or cupcakes will be in your foreseeable future.

Parchment paper. Lining your baking pans with parchment paper (you can cut them out yourself or buy pre-cut liners), will ensure your cake will turn out with ease. Also, an invaluable tip: Before frosting your cake, slide pieces of parchment or wax paper under the cake to protect it from falling icing. When you’re finished, gently pull them out to reveal a clean line between the cake and your board.

*

Looking for recipes? Find them here.

{Printable Recipe}

Anniversary Cake Part 1: Testing Recipes

For the past two weeks, I’ve secretly been making cake. Vanilla Buttermilk Cake with Lemon Curd and Fresh Raspberries, Iced with Swiss Buttercream to be exact. My parents celebrated their 30th anniversary today and I, with the help of one of my mom’s best friends, planned a surprise dinner for them at the Mission Inn last Sunday. And now that the party’s over, I can finally share my baking experiences, and everything I learned along the way.

The event took on many manifestations (including a blind wine tasting for 50 of their closest friends where I planned to make all the food) before we settled on an intimate dinner (at a restaurant, who would make the food for us) with just the immediate family. So, with no invitations to mail or appetizer menu’s to brainstorm, I thought of cake. Wedding cake, in particular, is one of my dad’s favorite guilty pleasures. At my own wedding, we made sure he had a special box to take home extra slices. Having never attempted a true wedding-style layer cake (thankfully, this time there were no dowels or tiers involved), I had to do some practicing.

There were a lot of firsts with this cake. First triple layer cake. First batch of Swiss Buttercream. First attempt at frosting a cake with my icing spatulas. I started by reading lots of recipes, watching videos, and generally getting a feel for the skills required to pull this off. Overall, nothing was a complete disaster. The biggest mistake I made was removing the layers  too quickly from their pan after baking. One layer broke in half with steam still rising from the center. The lesson? Let your cakes cool before transferring them anywhere. But with no one to impress just yet, the pressure was off. Plus, after smushing the layers back together, the break was undetectable.

The cake was moist, and its light flavor took the edge off the tart lemon curd and raspberries. I couldn’t have been happier. After my husband and I devoured our slice, I packed the rest up for him to take to work. The cake was finished before 9 am, and his colleagues prepared some thoughtful critiques after explaining it was a practice cake. The most common note was preferring more flavor in the buttercream. Personally, I thought the flavors were spot on, but I upped the vanilla by a ½ teaspoon in the final cake.

Next, tackling fondant…

Baked Ziti with Roasted Tomatoes

Macaroni and Cheese. It's one of America's classic comfort foods, and comes in more varieties than I can count. And sometimes it's the subtle differences—whole grain or Dijon mustard, sour cream or Crème fraîche, sharp cheddar or mild cheddar, fusilli or penne—that make the biggest difference. You see the dilemma. But the solution, it turns out, is pretty easy: try them all. Only through the detailed (and delicious) trial and error method will I discover what I'm truly looking for in this dish. So let the games begin.

I made a Mac and Cheese version last fall with one of my favorite vegetables, cauliflower, and though it was perfectly acceptable, it wasn't entirely spot on. Too tangy, slightly expensive, and (gasp!), I'm not sure Mac and Cheese is the best place for cauliflower. I knew there were more recipes to try. Let me introduce you to the current front runner, Baked Ziti with Roasted Tomatoes. This is absolutely, stick-to-your-ribs creamy, and the freshness of the tomatoes balances well with the cheese and soft noodles.

Baked Ziti with Roasted Tomatoes

Adapted from Martha Stewart Living

Recipe notes: Instead of measuring the cheese, I grated a heaping cup or so of each variety. For the breadcrumbs, I pulsed three slices of sandwich bread (crust and all) with about a cup of Italian-style breadcrumbs, then added melted butter (two tablespoons) and streamed in olive oil until the mixture was coated.

Ingredients

FOR PASTA
Coarse salt
pound pasta

FOR BREAD CRUMBS
3 slices sandwich bread
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Olive oil

FOR SAUCE AND CHEESE TOPPING
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for baking dishes
1/4 cup finely diced yellow onion
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
2 ounces Italian fontina cheese, grated (1/2 cup)
3 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated (1 cup), 1/3 cup reserved for topping
6 ounces extra-sharp white-cheddar cheese, grated (2 cups), 1/3 cup reserved for topping
2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated (1 cup), 1/2 cup reserved for topping
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

FOR TOPPING
Slow-Roasted Tomato Slices (recipe below)
Thyme sprigs

Directions

1. Heat oven and boil pasta: Heat oven to 375 degrees. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then add salt generously and cook pasta 2 to 3 minutes less than manufacturer's instructions (the outside should be cooked but the inside underdone. Transfer to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well.

2. Meanwhile, make bread crumbs: Tear bread into large pieces and pulse a few times in a food processor to form very large crumbs. Transfer to a bowl, and add melted butter. Toss evenly to coat.

3. Prepare baking dishes: Butter eight 6-ounce shallow baking dishes or one 1 1/2-quart baking dish.

4. Make cheese sauce: Melt butter in a 4-quart pot over medium heat, add onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Whisk in flour and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until bubbling but not browning, about 45 seconds. Add milk and whisk to combine. Bring to a simmer, stirring with a wooden spoon (scrape across the bottom and around edge of pot to prevent scorching), until thickened, about 4 minutes. Add fontina, 2/3 cup grated Gruyere, 1 2/3 cups grated cheddar, and 1/2 cup Parmigianno-Reggiano, stirring until completely melted and sauce is smooth. Season with salt and pepper, add cayenne and nutmeg, and stir to combine.

5. Assemble and add cheese topping: Add pasta to sauce and stir to thoroughly combine. Pour into prepared baking dishes and sprinkle evenly with the reserved cheeses, followed by the bread crumbs. If using, top with roasted tomato slices and thyme.

6. Bake: Place dishes on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake until bubbling and cheese is golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving.

Slow-Roasted Tomato Slices

Ingredients

6 small tomatoes, sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place tomato slices on rimmed baking sheets in a single layer. Drizzle with olive oil; season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with thyme leaves. Transfer to oven and roast until softened and browned in spots, about 20 minutes.

Whole Lemon Tart

Sometimes being a multi-tasker has its drawbacks. Like when you’re trying to half-bake a tart shell, and braise beef for dinner, and dust the living room, and do laundry, and listen to DVR playing in the background—things can go south quickly. Take this tart for instance.

The recipe is easy enough (bonus: it only takes one single lemon!), but since my Dutch oven (with the braised beef) took up most of the oven, I slid the pan on the lower rack but the tart shell didn't exactly brown evenly. Oh, and let's not forget that before I half-baked the shell, I poured the filling right in, yes, completely forgetting I omitted a step. Oops. I poured it back into a bowl, but the damage was (partially) done. Thank goodness for powdered sugar. Just cover the tart with it, and no one will ever know.

Side note: If you know anyone who's not a huge fan of lemons, try this with a Meyer. I'm telling you, it's a completely different experience: sweet and rich, minus the puckering feeling in your mouth.

Whole Lemon Tart
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen via Rollet-Pradier via Dorie Greenspan’s Paris Sweets

1 partially baked 9-inch (24-cm) Great Unshrinkable Tart Shell (also via Smitten Kitchen, recipe below)
1 Meyer lemon lemon
1 1/2 cups (300 grams) sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 1/2 tablespoons (12 grams) cornstarch (I had run out, and substituted 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour for the cornstarch)
1 stick (4 ounces; 115 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven 325°F (165°C). Line a trimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and put the tart shell on the sheet.

Slice the lemon into thin wedges, remove the seeds, and toss the lemon and sugar into the container of a blender or food processor. Blend or process, scraping down the sides of the container as needed, until the lemon is thoroughly pureed and blended with the sugar, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn the mixture into a bowl and, using a whisk, gently stir in the whole egg and the yolk, followed by the cornstarch and melted butter. [I actually just use the food processor for this whole mixing part, beating the other ingredients in until smooth.] Pour the filling into the crust but be sure to leave 1/4 inch between the top of your filling and the top edge of your crust.

Slide the baking sheet into the oven and bake the tart for 20 minutes. Increase the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the filling is bubbling, lightly browned and set. Don’t take the tart out until it is clearly set, however — you’re looking for a slight jiggliness with no suggestion of liquid underneath. Transfer the tart, still on the baking sheet, to a cooling rack and allow it to cool for at least 20 minutes before removing it from the pan. The tart is ready to be served when it reaches room temperature.

The Great Unshrinkable Sweet Tart Shell
Adapted from Dorie Greenspan

Makes enough for one 9-inch tart crust

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick plus 1 tablespoon (9 tablespoons; 4 1/2 ounces) very cold (or frozen) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 large egg

1. Pulse the flour, sugar and salt together in the bowl of a food processor. Scatter the pieces of butter over the dry ingredients and pulse until the butter is coarsely cut in. (You’re looking for some pieces the size of oatmeal flakes and some the size of peas.) Stir the yolk, just to break it up, and add it a little at a time, pulsing after each addition. When the egg is in, process in long pulses–about 10 seconds each–until the dough, which will look granular soon after the egg is added, forms clumps and curds. Just before you reach this stage, the sound of the machine working the dough will change–heads up. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and, very lightly and sparingly, knead the dough just to incorporate any dry ingredients that might have escaped mixing. Chill the dough, wrapped in plastic, for about 2 hours before rolling.

2. To roll the dough: Butter a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Roll out chilled dough on floured sheet of parchment paper to 12-inch round, lifting and turning dough occasionally to free from paper. (Alternately, you can roll this out between two pieces of plastic, though flour the dough a bit anyway.) Using paper as aid, turn dough into 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom; peel off paper. Seal any cracks in dough. Trim overhang to 1/2 inch. Fold overhang in, making double-thick sides. Pierce crust all over with fork.

Alternately, you can press the dough in as soon as it is processed: Press it evenly across the bottom and up the sides of the tart shell. You want to press hard enough that the pieces cling to one another, but not so hard that it loses its crumbly texture.

3. Freeze the crust for at least 30 minutes, preferably longer, before baking.

4. To fully or partially bake the crust: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Butter the shiny side of a piece of aluminum foil (or use nonstick foil) and fit the foil, buttered side down, tightly against the crust. And here is the very best part: Since you froze the crust, you can bake it without weights. Put the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake the crust for 20 to 25 minutes.

5. Carefully remove the foil. If the crust has puffed, press it down gently with the back of a spoon. Bake the crust about 10 minutes longer to fully bake it, or until it is firm and golden brown, brown being the important word: a pale crust doesn’t have a lot of flavor. (To partially bake it, only an additional 5 minutes is needed.) Transfer the pan to a rack and cool the crust to room temperature, and proceed with the rest of your recipe.

Do ahead: The dough can be wrapped and kept in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 2 months. While the fully baked crust can be packed airtight and frozen for up to 2 months, the flavor will be fresher bake it directly from the freezer, already rolled out.

Perfect Cauliflower Soup

I tend to like almost everything that comes out of Tyler Florence’s kitchen. So when I turned to a beautiful photo of cauliflower soup in his cookbook, Tyler’s Ultimate, I didn’t think twice about making it as soon as possible. But let's just say things didn't work out. (I suppose I should preface with a note about how I still love Tyler and although I was disappointed with his soup, I’ve moved on.) So, on to the disaster.

Most soups begin by sautéing a base of onions, garlic, or other vegetables, then adding liquid, usually stock, and letting it bubble away. Tyler's recipe began by simmering cream, then adding the onions and cauliflower and boiling them until they were tender. Although a red flag was raised when the recipe for what looked to be a perfectly delicious soup called for an entire stick of butter and one quart of cream, I followed the recipe exactly. This resulted in a soup that looked nothing like the glossy photo in his cookbook. In fact, there was hardly a resemblance. Not to mention that the milk frothed like latte foam when I used my immersion blender. Oh, it was a sad evening.  While the flavors were certainly there (the scent of butter seeping into cream, infused with thyme, was almost heavenly), I couldn't bear to look into my Dutch oven.

I was ready to give up, but wanted to at least attempt saving it. I tried to thicken the mixture by adding shreds of French bread and letting them soften before pureeing the soup again. It helped, but the soup, I later reasoned, was beyond saving.

There was, however, one glistening beam of hope shining down from the fluorescent kitchen light: the topping of Tyler’s soup was perfect. A mixture of toasted bread crumbs, thyme, and reserved cauliflower florets provided the satisfying crunch I tend to look for with creamy soups. So, it wasn’t a complete disaster, but I vowed to fix the problem immediately by creating my own version of cauliflower soup that was thick, healthy, and wouldn’t make me want to cry.

I turned to my Potato and Leek soup as a starting point. I’ve made this soup often enough that I rely on memory when making it, and it always, always, is the perfect velvety consistency. I reduced the number of potatoes, added cauliflower and thyme, and miraculously managed to create my ideal soup experience, perfect for the rainy weather we’ve been having.

Perfect Cauliflower Soup

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 heads cauliflower, core removed and cut into florets
2 small russet potatoes, peeled and diced
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, sliced
Several sprigs thyme, bundled with a string
6-8 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Melt butter and olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add onions and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally until onions are soft, about five minutes. Add chopped potatoes, cauliflower florets and thyme bundle to the pot. Add chicken stock until liquid just covers the vegetables. Bring soup to a boil, then cover and simmer over medium heat until the vegetables are tender, about ten to fifteen minutes.

2. Turn off heat and let soup cool for several minutes before pureeing. Using an immersion blender, puree mixture in 60-second intervals until lumps are removed. Add heavy cream, butter,  salt and pepper to taste and stir until combined.

3. To serve, return pot to low heat ten minutes before serving. Ladle into bowls, sprinkle with desired garnishes, a drizzle of olive oil, and serve.

Notes on garnishes: You have a lot of options for how to finish your soup. Here are a few suggestions

• Toasted breadcrumbs with thyme and pine nuts: In a small saucepan, toast breadcrumbs, pine nuts, and thyme leaves until brown and crisp


• Roasted cauliflower florets: You can roast these in the oven for 40 minutes at 400 degrees (dressed with olive oil, salt, and pepper) or saute in a bit of butter in a skillet


• If you have nothing else – chopped parsley!

Roasted Asparagus with Eggs

I know eggs are a treasured ingredient in the culinary world. People put them on everything: toast, tomato sauce, tortillas. I've just never seen what all the fuss is about. My egg memories are of Saturday mornings as a child, when my dad would make them sunny side up  in bacon grease and fold it into a buttered piece of toast. Delicious, yes. But I’m really not a breakfast person.

When Bon Appetit named eggs as one of the food trends of 2009, I dog-eared a couple of the recipes, but still haven’t come around to making them. Then I saw a recipe for roasted asparagus and eggs and something in my brain shifted. First, I had all of the ingredients at home – no extra trip to the store required. Second, aside from eggs, each ingredient has a permanent place in my kitchen (balsamic vinegar, Parmesan cheese, asparagus).


Oh. My. Goodness. The creamy yolk, sweet balsamic vinegar and salty Parmesan are just perfect together. I was convinced after one bite. I knew my husband would be hesitant to try it, but after his first bite, he too was surprised at how much he enjoyed it. We agreed it would be perfect with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and a salami and cheese platter, so come summer, you can bet we’ll be making this again for a light dinner on a warm evening. Actually, you could eat this meal for breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner. Just pick your favorite time of day, and  enjoy.

Roasted Asparagus and Eggs

Recipe courtesy Whole Living

1 medium thick asparagus bunch, tough ends removed
2 tablespoons olive oil
Coarse salt
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon light-brown sugar
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
4 large eggs
2 ounces shaved parmesan

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. On a baking sheet with a rim, toss asparagus with oil. Season with salt. Bake until asparagus is lightly browned and tender, 15 to 18 minutes (timing will vary depending upon thickness of asparagus).

2. In a small saucepan, cook balsamic vinegar and sugar over medium-high heat until syrupy and reduced to 3 tablespoons, about 6 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, bring a large skillet with 2 inches of water to a simmer over medium heat. Add cider vinegar and season with salt. Break one egg at a time into a cup, then tip cup into pan. Simmer until whites are set and yolks are soft but slightly set, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spatula, scoop out eggs one at a time and drain on paper towels. With a paring knife, trim edges.

4. Divide asparagus among four plates and drizzle with reduced balsamic. Top with shaved Parmesan and an egg.

Orecchiette with Broccoli

I tend to avoid frozen food at all cost, but people, it’s time to reconnect with the freezer section of your supermarket. Even though the main ingredient of this dish comes right out of a bag, it’s wonderful, mindlessly simple, and you can toss it together in the time it takes to cook the pasta.


Oh, and look, I managed to find orecchitte! With my one box of this not-always-in-stock pasta, I had to do something special. And when I flipped through the pages of January’s Gourmet and saw a bowl of this pasta, I knew this was it. The garlic and red pepper flakes (and of course, a large handful of Parmesan) really pull all the flavors together, and the “little ears” are perfect for scooping up bits of broccoli.


Orecchiette with Broccoli

Recipe adapted from Gourmet

5 garlic cloves
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 bag frozen chopped broccoli (16 oz; do not thaw!)
¾ cup water
¼ tsp. hot red-pepper flakes
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus additional for serving
1 lb. dried orecchiette pasta

Heat oil in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat. Grate garlic cloves into the oil and cook for 1 minute, until just beginning to turn golden.

Add broccoli, red-pepper flakes, salt and pepper, water, and cook covered, stirring occasionally, until broccoli is very tender, about 12-15 minutes. Stir in cheese until melted.

Meanwhile, cook pasta until al dente. Reserve one cup cooking water, then drain pasta.

Toss pasta with broccoli and ½ cup reserved pasta water. Season with salt.  Serve with cheese for sprinkling.

Kale Chips

In case you haven’t tired of kale this winter, this is a fun and easy way to eat your greens. With ten minutes of cooking time left, I slipped my hand in the oven and grabbed a small chip to test. As I took a bite, the chip crumbled in my mouth. I looked at the leaf in my hand and marveled at how the simple act of roasting leaves tossed with salt and pepper could result in such a simple but lovely appetizer. The flavor had a bit of heat – slightly spicy and warm in the back of your mouth, a touch of bitterness, and a soft crunch.


I was starting to think I’d eat them all even before they’d finished cooking and before I had a chance to snap a photo. I managed to stop myself from devouring them, but it was hard. They melt in your mouth and you’ll want more than one, so use a few bunches if cooking for a crowd.

It’s not laborious, fancy, and doesn’t require a long list of ingredients. Plus they look pretty standing tall for their portraits. I used Tuscan kale, which Bon Appetit explained is easiest to handle and quickest to cook, thanks to crinkled leaves that are smaller and more tender than leaves of curly kale.

Kale Chips
Recipe courtesy Bon Appetit

Ingredients

12 large Tuscan kale leaves, rinsed, dried, cut lengthwise in half, center ribs and stems removed
1 tablespoon olive oil

Preparation

Preheat oven to 250°F. Toss kale with oil in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange leaves in single layer on 2 large baking sheets. Bake until crisp, about 30 minutes for flat leaves and up to 33 minutes for wrinkled leaves. Transfer leaves to rack to cool.

Parmesan Pull-Aparts

Ever since I attempted to make French bagets about four months ago, bread has been my enemy in the kitchen. The three-day experiment was so unsuccessful that I didn’t even bother blogging about it, so I’m thrilled to post that I finally made bread and it wasn’t a disaster. In fact, it was melt-in-your-mouth fantastic. The yeast didn’t defeat me, and when I pulled the pan out of the oven with puffed, golden brown rolls, it was hard to contain my excitement.



Parmesan Pull-Aparts

Recipe courtesy Gourmet

2 teaspoons active dry yeast (from a 1/4-oz package)
1 teaspoon mild honey or sugar
2/3 cup warm milk (105–115°F), divided
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour plus 2 Tbsp for sprinkling
1 1/4 cups grated (with a rasp) Parmigiano-Reggiano (1 1/3 oz)
1 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into Tbsp pieces and softened
1 tablespoon water

Equipment:
A stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment

Stir together yeast, honey, and 1/3 cup warm milk in mixer bowl and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. (If mixture doesn't foam, start over with new yeast.) Whisk together flour (2 1/2 cups), cheese, and salt, then mix into yeast mixture along with remaining 1/3 cup warm milk at low speed. Increase speed to medium and beat in 2 eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, then beat, scraping down side of bowl occasionally, until a very soft dough forms, about 3 minutes. Beat in butter, 1 Tbsp at a time, until dough is elastic, about 2 minutes. (Dough will be very sticky.)

Scrape dough into center of bowl and sprinkle with remaining 2 Tbsp flour. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and a kitchen towel and let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Punch down dough (do not knead) and turn out onto a floured surface. Cut dough into 12 equal pieces and roll each into a ball by cupping your hand and pushing dough against work surface as you roll in a circular motion. Arrange rolls 1 inch apart in a buttered 9- by 2-inch round cake pan and cover with a kitchen towel (not terry cloth). Let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled and dough fills pan, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Preheat oven to 375°F with rack in middle.

Whisk together remaining egg with water and brush on tops of rolls. (You will have leftover egg wash.) Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Loosen edges of rolls from pan with a sharp knife and invert rolls onto a rack, then reinvert and cool at least 20 minutes.

Cooks’ note: Rolls are best the day they're made but can be frozen (cool completely, then wrap well) 1 month. Thaw, then reheat on a baking sheet in a 350°F oven until warmed through, 5 to 10 minutes.

La Bête Noire

Translation: The Black Beast. Based on the name alone, I knew this decadent chocolate cake would be an ideal finish to our Valentine’s Day dinner (see post below). Flourless chocolate cake is one of my all time favorite desserts. The texture is dense, closer to fudge, and you will only need a few bites to feel satisfied.


La Bête Noire

Bon Appétit |  September 2006

by Jason Aronen

Cake

1 cup water
3/4 cup sugar
9 tablespoons (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon) unsalted butter, diced
18 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, chopped
6 large eggs

Ganache

1 cup heavy whipping cream
8 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, chopped

Preparation

For cake:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 10-inch-diameter springform pan. Line bottom of pan with parchment round; butter parchment. Wrap 3 layers of heavy-duty foil around outside of pan, bringing foil to top of rim. Combine 1 cup water and sugar in small saucepan. Bring to boil over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Melt butter in large saucepan over low heat. Add chocolate and whisk until smooth. Whisk sugar syrup into chocolate; cool slightly. Add eggs to chocolate mixture and whisk until well blended. Pour batter into prepared pan. Place cake pan in large roasting pan. Add enough hot water to roasting pan to come halfway up sides of cake pan.

Bake cake until center no longer moves when pan is gently shaken, about 50 minutes. Remove from water bath; transfer to rack. Cool completely in pan.

For ganache:
Bring whipping cream to simmer in small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat. Add chocolate and whisk until smooth. Pour over top of cake still in pan. Gently shake pan to distribute ganache evenly over top of cake. Refrigerate cake in pan until ganache is set, about 2 hours. DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and keep refrigerated.

Run knife around pan sides to loosen cake; release sides. Cut cake into wedges and serve with whipped cream, if desired.

Roasted Filet Mignon with Cauliflower Puree + Wine Resolutions #5 and #20

For busy holidays, we like to stay in and cook a great meal (see recent New Year’s post). This Valentine’s Day, we decided to bring the restaurant to our kitchen and serve grilled filet with French fries. (More about dessert coming soon – but I’ll give you a hint: chocolate, chocolate and chocolate.) The wine fulfilled Wine Resolutions #5 and #20: Take notes on a fine wine from beginning to end, and shatter your price limit.

We chose Sunstone’s 2005 Eros, a merlot and cabernet blend. We’ve had this wine before, at the vineyard, where they served a taste alongside chocolate. I’m going to say this shattered our price limit, but have to confess that while technically this is a $58 bottle of wine (the most we’ve spent in recent years is around $34), we found the same wine on a shelf in Cost Plus for a mere $29.99. We actually had to look at the label to be sure it was correct. But there it was, a bottle of Eros half off, and you didn’t have to twist our arm to buy it.

So, on to the wine. A smell just after opening the bottle revealed aromas of blackberry and spice, and the taste was slightly peppery. But just twenty minutes later, it smelled and tasted like a different wine. It smelled sweeter, like plum, and the pepper was milder on the palate, only hitting your taste buds at the end. It went perfectly with our filet, and during dinner we marveled at how this little experiment revealed so much about how wines develop.

Roasted Filet Mignon with Cauliflower Puree

Recipe inspired by Ariane Duarte (Top Chef) and Tyler Florence

Ingredients

For beef
2 filet mignon steaks
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. butter
Fresh Italian parsley, chopped (for garnish)

For puree
1 head cauliflower, cut into 1-inch florets
1 medium potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cups heavy cream
4 tbsp. butter
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
3 sprigs thyme

Directions

For the puree:
Place all ingredients in a medium sized pot.  Add enough water to just cover vegetables. Let everything come to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to low and simmer for about 35 minutes, until everything is soft.

Discard thyme. Put mixture into a food processor and puree until smooth. Add butter one tablespoon at a time, then cream as necessary. Continue pureeing until smooth. Season with more salt and pepper.  To keep warm, place puree into a large glass bowl over a pot of boiling water.

For the beef:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Season both sides of filet with salt and pepper. In a medium sauté pan, add olive oil and butter over medium high heat. Sear each side for three minutes, then put the pan in the oven and roast until the meat is medium-rare, about 9-10 minutes.  Set meat aside to rest before slicing.

To serve, place some puree on each plate, then place sliced filet on top.  Garnish with parsley, if desired.

Risotto with Red Wine and Mushrooms

Oh, risotto. Creamy, subtle, and comforting. It might be the world’s perfect meal. Like soup, it warms you from the inside out, and is adaptable to endless flavor combinations. Tonight was the first time I used red wine, resulting in a beautiful, deep lavender color. Sliced mushrooms add heartiness, and combined with a good handful of Parmesan cheese, it was absolutely lovely. I’ve always wanted to try risotto balls – the fried dumplings using leftover risotto, but we never seem to have anything left.


One of the biggest misconceptions (stated by Mario Batali himself in this video), is that risotto must be constantly stirred. I gave into the myth for years, but tonight, my risotto was made with minimal stirring and it still turned out wonderfully. Mario serves his “almost soupy,” as he puts it. That is, when you spoon risotto onto a plate, it moves around, and the rice is suspended in the starchy broth.


Risotto with Red Wine and Mushrooms

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot, diced
2 medium Portobello mushrooms, thinly sliced
2 cups Arborio rice
2/3 cup red wine
8 cups chicken stock
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for sprinkling
Fresh Italian parsley, for garnish

Directions

Bring broth to a simmer in a heavy medium saucepan. Add the mushrooms and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove mushrooms with a slotted spoon and set aside. Keep the broth warm over very low heat. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until softened and translucent but not browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon until toasted and opaque, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the wine to the toasting rice, and then add a ladle of stock and cook, stirring, until it is absorbed. Add several ladles of stock (enough to just cover the rice) and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is mostly absorbed. Continue adding stock until rice is tender and creamy, about 20-25 minutes. Stir in the butter and cheese until well mixed. Add mushrooms and stir gently to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Rustic Canyon’s Cranberry Orange Ricotta Cake

Since relocating to Los Angeles in September, I haven’t spent many evenings dining out. Aside from the two weeks of forced exile to eateries because of a broken fridge, my recent dinner at Rustic Canyon Wine Bar and Seasonal Kitchen in Santa Monica was our first real night out in a few months. It was a night where reservations were made after several restaurants were carefully considered before settling on Rustic Canyon, and I was genuinely looking forward to it.


Rustic Canyon appealed to me because of its emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients (they shop at the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market) and, based on their website and online reviews, what seemed to be a commitment to simple, quality food. 

Bouchon, my favorite restaurant in Santa Barbara, follows a similar method of using Farmer’s Market fare. Once we arrived for dinner at Bouchon at 5:30 and ordered a scallop appetizer – one of the last the kitchen had available that night. When they run out of the good stuff, it’s gone.

So, it’s safe to say my expectations were high. While I love to cook at home, I’m usually overcome with giddiness at the thought of a night out at a really, really good restaurant. It’s my chance to order food I don’t normally make at home, try wines I don’t usually buy. I should also mention that I crossed out Wine Resolution #17: Try a wine you think you don't like. Blame it on Sideways, but Merlot sales went downhill when that movie became popular. I drank Merlot only when it was offered at tastings, but tonight I took the advice of our server and paired a Napa Merlot with my scallops. I'm happy to say I was not at all disappointed.

Side note: I don’t tend to take pictures in restaurants. While part of me is dying to capture the moment, another, more pronounced part says no, don’t interrupt the moment with a flash that causes other diner’s to look your way, or incessant plate spinning for just the right angle. I can’t do it. But check out the link above. Their food is as clean and inviting as their website.

We started with artichoke ravioli, which was good, but not overly exciting. Then my scallops arrived, perfectly browned on both sides with a celery root puree and red wine reduction. The next fifteen minutes were blissful as I savored every bite. You might be wondering where the cake comes in. I stumbled upon the recipe in the LA Times during my Google-research phase and was thrilled to see that it was on the menu the night we went. (We also ordered the donuts with dark chocolate sauce – an absolute must if you visit.)

The restaurant version was as I expected – moist and the perfect combination of sweetness and tartness. It was especially nice when paired with a small bite of cool vanilla bean ice cream. When I made it at home, the friends I had over noted its versatility – perfect for breakfast, brunch an afternoon snack, and a great alternative to Pumpkin Pie for Thanksgiving. It seems this cake can be eaten at any time of day, and for any occasion, making it a great recipe to keep in your files when you need something just right.

Rustic Canyon’s Cranberry Orange Ricotta Cake

Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes

Servings: 18

Adapted from pastry chef Zoe Nathan of Rustic Canyon

2 cups flour
1 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3 eggs
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 tablespoons vanilla
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks) butter
1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided
2 1/4 teaspoons salt
Zest of 1 orange
2 cups ricotta cheese
2 1/2 cups cranberries, divided

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 9-inch round by 3-inch tall cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and baking soda. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, maple syrup, oil and vanilla. Set aside.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, cream together the butter, 1 1/2 cups sugar, salt and zest. Mix just until thoroughly combined; do not overmix.
4. With the mixer running, slowly incorporate the egg mixture into the butter just until combined.
5. With the mixer on low speed, add one-half of the flour mixture to the batter and quickly mix for 5 seconds. Turn off the mixer and add the rest of the flour, the ricotta and one-half of the cranberries. Mix the remaining ingredients into the batter over low speed just until combined, being careful not to overmix.
6. Gently pour the batter into the cake pan and smooth the top. Scatter the remaining cranberries over the top of the cake, and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar.
7. Bake the cake until a toothpick inserted comes out clean, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Place a loose piece of foil over the top of the cake if it starts to darken. Cool the cake on a wire rack before removing it from the pan.

Rosemary White Bean Soup

One of the first soups I made at home and fell in love with was white bean soup. It was also the first soup I made with my immersion blender, which I’ve already plugged on this site. I’m telling you, if you love soup, you simply must have this gadget.


Paired with woody rosemary, this creamy, simple soup is always satisfying, and very straightforward to make. I’ve tried several variations over the years. Some recipes called for basil instead of rosemary, others lacked cream, and some soups skipped pureeing altogether and left the beans in tact to mingle with wilted greens suspended in broth. As enthusiastic as I initially was about these soups, I always went back to rosemary, and essentially the easiest preparation which I have found to be the most luxurious and delicious. Why mess with a good thing?

Cooking notes: With the liquid to vegetable ratio, I tend to add enough liquid to just cover the ingredients that I’m leaving to boil. I find this method usually results in an ideal consistency when it comes time to puree. If your pureed soup is too thick, you can always add more stock to thin it.

Rosemary White Bean Soup

2 tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 branch fresh rosemary
4 15 oz. cans cannellini beans, drained and rinsed clean from their juices
5 cups chicken stock
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/3 cup heavy whipping cream (optional)

In a large stockpot over medium-low heat, warm olive oil and add onions and carrot. Sauté until the onions are translucent and carrot is cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for three more minutes. Add the drained white beans, rosemary branch, chicken stock and bay leaf.

Cover, bring to a boil, and simmer for 30-40 minutes, until the beans are soft. Remove the rosemary branch and bay leaf.

With an immersion blender, puree soup until desired consistency is reached. If using, stir in whipping cream. Add salt and pepper, to taste, and ladle into bowls. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil.